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20 May 09: Hi there, I am wondering if you can help me please. I brought a flying dragon dwarf citrus Yuzu lime from you back at the beginning of December last year. We live in an apartment so the Lime tree is in a pot. It soon out grew the little pot and in March this year we brought a 40 litre pot for it and used your soil mixture recommended for container growing plants. It seemed to be doing ok. But now the leaves are falling and one or two of them are turning yellow (from the middle of the leaf out). I have not been able to find out if it should loose it’s leaves due to winter approaching and have conflicting reasons for the leaves turning yellow. Are you able to offer me any advise please?
... Citrus are not deciduous so should not lose all their leaves.
How much are you watering your pot? If you are saturating the soil every week and it is not drying out to just moist before the next watering then you may be over-watering it. The leaves going brown from the centre are a possible sign of excess water. In the bigger pot the plant will not have got it’s roots out into the new soil yet so you may find the bottom half of the pot is water-logged and the plant is suffering.
I seldom tell people to reduce watering but you need to look at this as a possibility. To test dig down to the lower region of the pot and see if the soil is sodden.
Just check also that the excess water can drain through the pot and out the drainage holes. I am assuming you put a layer of scoria or broken pot pieces in the bottom of the pot for drainage.
Conversely make sure you are keeping the soil moist at all times, do not let it dry out.
Should you continue to have issues please bring the plant back to us and we will sort it out for you.
19 May 09: we have clay about 300mm below our ground level and we have just dug some holes to plant trees. prior to planting we found that the holes filled with ground water to the top of the clay and does not drain easily. this seems to be a winter problem and i suspect that the clay would be dry in the summer. what would be a suitable tree to plant here? would a cabbage tree be suitable?
... This is a serious issue that you need to fix prior to planting any trees as most trees will not tolerate such dense clay.
You need to add a good 10-20cm thick layer of compost onto your soil and dig it in whilst trying to break up the clay. Add a good layer of gypsum as this will help break down the clay particles, add Gypsum every 6 months and compost every 6-12 months.. It is also good to add pumice chips or scoria to help drainage when initially preparing the soil.
Only once preparing the soil would I suggest planting, otherwise the plants will fail to thrive.
Plant hardy natives, yes perhaps Cordyline.
19 May 09: I have two well established camelias, among many, that have almost completely lost all of their leaves but have flower buds. This happened quite suddenly over a two week period. What would cause this and can they be saved?
... Your plants are most likely to be showing signs of water deficit or water excess. Have you watered your trees this summer? if not they may be under stress. You need to water your plants deeply and regularly to saturate the soil right through the root zone. This usually takes about 1 hr with a sprinkler every week, or steady rain for at least a couple of hours.
Check for insects, the most problematic are thrips or mites. You will see the leaves appearing silvery and they will have a powdery look to the undersides with tiny webs. Spray with Confidor mixed with Conqueror Oil or Aquaticus Glow and make sure you spray the stems and undersides of any leaves. Clean up any fallen leaves and put them in the garbage or burn them.
Prune your tree back to healthy buds to force new healthy leaf growth. You will sacrifice the flowers but will re-invigourate the plant.
19 May 09: Is it possible to "espalier" a Tecomanthe or do they have only one central climber? I would like to train it to spread out similar to an espaliered fruit.
... Tecomanthe is a climber so all you need to do is pinch back the central leader to force lateral shoots to grow. Train these lateral shoots where you want them. Pinch back by at least 3 or 4 leaf nodes to ensure you get multiple shoots growing.
As it is a twiner it will need to be tied losely in position to allow the growing tips to get hold of the wire or support you want them to go along.
19 May 09: We have a lime tree, around 3 years old which is in he glasshouse. It has been growing really well although the 2nd year of fruiting we have few limes, but they had very little fruit in them, very thick skin. This year the fruit which is about a 50 cent size, have all been falling off. Have noticed this year that the tree has been attacked where young shoots have been eaten. Have not noticed any bugs.
... It sounds as though your tree is in water deficit with the lack of fruit then the thick skinned fruit. You need to water all glasshouse plants deeply and regularly. Fruiting plants require the same deep, regular watering to produce good bud-set followed by full-sized juicy fruit.
Is your plant in a pot, if so is it root bound and in need of re-potting?
Have you been feeding your tree regularly with Citrus food? Feed monthly with citrus food from spring to late summer.
The bugs may be slugs or snails that work mostly at night, or they could be caterpillars, You will have to look carefully to see if you can determine which. Sprinkle som slug pellets around to combat the slugs and snails.
18 May 09: Is it possile to cross a red rose and a white rose and produce a pink rose??Has this ever been done???
... Yes rose breeding has for centuaries been producing a wild variety of colours of roses by breeding roses with diferent features and growth habits to produce plants with a mixture of these features. It is a complex and interesting process. This is why we have PVR and patent rights on plants, because it costs many dollars to carry out the breeding process.
18 May 09: My avocado tree is about 3 years old and already growing too big - no fruit yet though. Is it possible to move thr tree and espallier it along a fence? I live in Kawerau and we have to cover the tree for frosts.
... It typically takes about 5 years for Avocado to fruit.
You can prune these large growing trees for shape in late winter - early spring. Avocado fruit on last years wood and require high light penetration for good fruiting.
I would imagine it would be very dificult to espallier this tree as it is so old. If you did attempt this you would need to espallier in a fan shape as with stone fruit.
18 May 09: WHEN IS A GOOD TIME TO PLANT PLUM TREES AND IS THERE A MINITURE TREE. OR WHAT WOULD BE BEST FOR SMALLEST TREE MANY THANKS RAEWYN
... Currently there are no dwarf Plum trees on the market.
The best time to plant any deciduous fruit tree is July-August and they are due to come into our branches toward the end of June.
The small/med/lg grade on the labels pertains to the fruit size.
It really depends on the fruit you want and then keep it pruned to the shape that suits you, allowing for maximising the fruiting wood. Plums fruit on old wood from the previous summer, always prune in summer to reduce vigour control shape.
18 May 09: i was given a daphne plant as a present. I planted it and all the leaves have fallen off. it’s looks like itls getting worse not better and i have fed it - it was perfectly healthy when i got it and now just looks sad almost dead. I’m not sure what to do - can you help?
... When you planted it did you incorporate lots of organic matter, such as compost, into the soil?
Have you watered it deeply each week to ensure it does not dry out?
Daphne require an acid soil environment with good drainage. Try feeding with Sequestrene to help with colour and vigour, and mulch with plenty of Kings Organic Compost to improve moisture retention and soil quality.
Should you continue to have issues please bring it into your local Kings branch and speak to them about it, I am sure they will sort it out for you.
Don’t Forget Kings proudly offer our "Sure To Grow" Guarantee!!!
13 May 09: how to care for cyclamen.In the past i have thrown them out when they die down.Will they come back to life or is that the end of them?
... Most certainly Cyclamen will come back each winter if you care for them properly.
New leaves and buds will form in autumn and you should feed regularly every 1-2 weeks with Kings Fast Food liquid fertiliser until flowering ceases in late spring.
As the leaves turn yellow reduce the watering and tip the pot on it’s side to dry.
Either leave the corm in the pot in a cool dry place or remove and store in moist sand untill you repot in late summer. Many people just leave the pot in the shade under a tree or under the house over the summer then repot it in late summer, they are actually quite tollerant.
Repot into a soil rich in peat moss and water sparingly untill new growth starts to appear.
13 May 09: Hello. How soon after planting a gardenia can you expect flowers? My mother in Christchurch planted one in a pot 2 years ago and has not yet had a flower. She believes she has done all the right things for it and has a succeessful garden otherwise. Thank you for answering a South Island question for me. I have friends in Forrest Hill and we frequently enjoy your lovely cafe.
... Thank you for your enquiry, I most certainly love answering questions from all over the country and have even had a number from Europe.
Gardenia will flower from cuttings so there is no time delay to speak of, except where caused by external factors.
Gardenia do need protection from frost and wind, and thrive well in full sunlight.
As a gardener from Christchurch myself I can imagine your mother has cared well for her plant, but I wonder if she has fed it too much nitrogen and not enough Potassium (K) for flower formation. Realistically if the plant is growing well this would be one of the few issues to prevent flowering. Feed regularly with an acid lovers plant food with a high K content.
The other issue is snails, slugs and caterpillars could be eating the buds before they open. Sprinkle Basol pellets around the plant to eliminate the snails and slugs. Spray with Carbaryl to eliminate caterpillars.
8 May 09: Can I prune my pear and apple tree before the leaf drop
... You should winter (dormant) prune as late in the winter as possible but before the sap starts flowing with increasing temperatures in spring. This will improve growth the following spring and retain fruiting wood.
I would wait till the leaves drop before pruning any pip fruit. Make sure you paint with a pruning paste after pruning as this helps protect the plant against disease attack.
8 May 09: I have to move some raspberries - when and how please.
... 1 - Raspberries should be lifted after cutting back the canes after fruiting and after they lose all their leaves in Autumn Winter... so when dormant.
2 - Simply dig a reasonable rootball and shift to the new position. Any time from April to August. The earlier you shift the plants the earlier they will flower and fruit.
3 - Prepare the soil as for strawberries, digging in organic manure and Kings Organic Compost plus a good dressing of Kings General Garden Fertiliser.
4 - Trim off all old dead leaves and straggly roots.
5 - Set out about 60cm apart in rows 2mt apart. Backfill with a soil and compost mix.
6 - Mulch with a good layer of mulch around and between plants, but don’t cover the stems with mulch.
Good Eating!!
5 May 09: How many cobs of corn should I expect from each plant? My plants seem vigourous and healthy and I only ever get two cobs per plant.
I have light brown spots on leaves and stems of Brussel sprouts and broccoli. What could this be and what should I do?
Should I use Natures Way Fungus Spray and Pyrethrum regularly to prevent pests and diseases or just when a notice a problem?
I also have a major weed problem in my general gardens. They are covered in a bark mulch and have been in place for about 18 months. I have sprayed several times with Roundup, but as soon as they die off masses of new ones reappear. I do not know what they are although some are oxalis. Is there something else I should do to eradicate them.
... 1 - Corn will typically set 2-3 cobs per plant. To ensure best growth feed with a Kings General Garden Fertiliser when you first plant out the seedlings or seed, then fortnightly with Kings Tomato food. This will ensure you maximise plant then flower and cob production.
2 - The light brown spots could be a fungus although Brassicas more commonly suffer insect damage. Use Tui Eco-Fungus to combat this. Should it be caterpillars eating a layer of the leaf surface, check under the leaves, dust with Derris Dust and spray with Pyrethrum and Garlic. It is always good to spray using a spray program of every 2-4 weeks to prevent attack.
3 - The only successful spray against Oxalis is Death To Oxalis. You must NEVER try and dig it out or you will simply spread it. Spray leaves as they appear for as long as they still appear. You will beat it, it just takes time and patience. For other general weeds use greenscape as it is more friendly to the environment.
4 May 09: We recently planted a Miho Satsuma Mandarin Orange tree...not thinking about what we would do if we sell. I want to take this remembrance tree with me if we buy a new place. Should I leave it in the ground until then or dig it up and put it in a large pot? It could be anywhere from 1-2 yrs before we move. The tree is pretty small at this point about 2-3 ft tall. Thx
... If it was me I would put it in a large pot as this would reduce the shock to the plant of transplanting in two years time but you must water and feed it well for best results over that time. Follow the following rules:
1 - Choose a pot with sides that do NOT curve into the top as this makes removal from the pot very difficult.
2 - When you dig it out of the soil to put into the pot make sure you water it deeply the day before.
3 - Feed with Kings Citrus Food after planting then monthly from spring to late summer. Feed every 6-8 weeks over autumn and winter.
4 - Water your plant deeply at least once a week, checking daily to see if it needs watering more frequently. Never let your pot dry out.
5 - Sprinkle Saturaid on the soil in september and January, this will help with even water saturation of the soil through the pot.
4 May 09: We have 4 large standard Hibiscus that I want to move to a different garden. The trees are about 6 years old and very healthy. Are they too old to transplant successfully? If not should you prune them right back first , is there a good time of the year to do it and should I know anything particular about the soil mix I move them to? Thanks
... You should have few issues shifting your Hibiscus as long as you follow these simple rules:
1 - Shift in June-July when they are resting for winter.
2 - Water the plants well prior to digging out and shifting.
3 - Prune to reduce leaf area and moisture loss due to transpiration.
4 - Dig as large a rootball as you can handle, this ensures best recovery for the plant.
5 - Dig the new planting hole bigger than the rootball with plenty of room for added compost and soil to be backfilled around the plants rootball.
6 - Mix compost with the soil in the bottom of the hole. Add Gypsum Soil life if it is a clay soil as this will break down the clay particles.
7 - Place the rootball into the hole making sure the old soil level on the trunk is about 5cm below the surrounding garden. Backfill with soil and compost and firm in so that the soil is dished down to the old soil level on the trunk. This creates a well that water will run into instead of running away and it ensures best watering results.
8 - As these will be larger trees you may need to stake them, use two stakes, one on either side of the trunk, with ties to the trunk to keep it in place.
9 - Add a light top-dressing of Blood and Bone to promote root growth.
Best of luck with this, just remember the bigger the rootball the better the end result!
4 May 09: Have been given an old bottle of Fulset tomato setting spray put out by boots. the base is naphthoxyacetic 0.8g-litre. What is available that does the same job.
... The only product we have available to us is a product called Tomato Magic. This is reported to do the same job as Tomset or Fulset.
4 May 09: As fruit and root crops do not want fertilisers high in nitrogen, what should I use as a side dressing as they grow, and how often? I have used your Granular all purpose fertiliser at planting time.
... Gerneral fertiliser is excellent to start with at planting. As the plants develop change to Kings Citrus food or Kings Tomato Food for the fruiting plants, and for root crops change to Thrive. Blood and bone or bone dust are both high in Phosphorous which is excellent for root development.
30 April 09: Hello again. I cannot find a picture of a growing stephenosis. Mine has one vine with leaves growing from it. Is doing well. Does it shoot more vines? Thanks
... Yes Stephanotis will form a many stemmed climber but has the propensity in the early stages to just grow up without branching. The best way to encourage branching is to pinch back the central leader tip by 2-3 leaf nodes, this will force the plant to initiate more growing tips further down the stem.
Well done on growing it well, it obviously likes the position you have it in and your attention.
30 April 09: When I grow brussel sprouts they do well until the sprouts form. When the sprouts start to grow they become very loose until they just become abunch of leaves and I get nothing off them. This isn’t just a oncer, it happens every year and all other veges are great. What am I doing wrong (Or not doing)
... If you properly cultivate reliable seeds you should get a good Brussels sprout, however if they are not firm and tight it could be a potash deficiency or an excess of nitrogen, poor seeds or soil that is not firm enough.
Have a look at these possibilities in your garden and perhaps add a side dressing of a high Potassium fertilizer such as Kings Garden Booster. Once the heads start to form stop the addition of high Nitrogen fertilizers.
Of course the birds, caterpillars and aphids can also cause problems.
29 April 09: I am a new gardener, having acquired a property with an established garden, trees & shrubs, max age 19yrs. Pride of garden is a pincushion leucospermum (approx 5’ high) which I ignorantly feed Tui Super Sheep Pellets with nitrophoska sometime during Feb/March. I have since learnt that fertisliser is a NO NO for leucospermums. The plant was cut back after flowering. It has now developed yellowing of leaves climbing up the stems. Can I do anything to help the plant back to "green health"? Someone suggested Epsom Salts may help? Can I cut it severely back into the thick wood and have it shoot away again?
... It is so hard taking over an established garden, even harder as a new gardener... that is why I am here to help you so don’t hesitate to contact me any time.
Leucospermum are members of the protea family and there are some golden rules for growing them:
1 - Grow best in well drained sandy soils.
2 - Do NOT fertillize as they are extreemly sensitive to phosphorus and can only tollerate tiny amounts of nitrogen and potassium.
3 - Mulch the root zone but do not put mulch up against the stems.
4 - Water the roots deeply once a week keeping water clear of the stems and leaves to prevent humidity. Avoid overhead watering.
5 - Prune lightly after flowering when young for shape only. When established you can prune quite hard but do not prune back to bare leafless stems.
I would advise you to scrape the top layer of soil and any visible remaining fertilizer and sheep pellets away from the plant and remove them to another more appreciative plant. Then mulch around the plant and water deeply every week.
Leucospermums can be pernickety creatures and may just die for no apparent reason. If you follow the above rules you should have success.
28 April 09: what is the best time to start growing potatoes
... Potatoes can be planted now for a winter crop or in spring for a summer/Christmas crop. Realistically the only time they will not grow is in the coldest frosty winter months.
Potatoes take about 3 months from planting to harvest.
We have seed potatoes in stock currently ready for planting.
28 April 09: i have planted a no of daphne plants in my daughters garden in ngaio wellington .poor soil clay banks with poor drainage and cold wellington weather. they need a fert boost what do you recommend and wher can i get some .i have about 20 specimens planted.thanks
... Daphne require a good rich soil that contains plenty of compost and is slightly acid. I would advise you to topdress the soil with Gypsum Soil Life which will help break down the clay particles as it works its way through the soil. Also add a good thick 6-10cm layer of compost over the area, this will improve the soil structure and nutrient content.
Use an Azalea and Rhododendron food plus Sequestrene as these are both for acid loving plants.
20 April 09: I have just purchased a house and moved in last weekend. I have two little problems:
1. Onehunga weed is really bad - how do I deal with this:
2. The under house really smells bad of cats. I have blocked off where they were coming in. Is there anything I can do to get rid of the odour.
... "Prickle Weed Killer" will control Onehunga weed ONLY if sprayed at peak growth period in spring but before flower buds form. It is essential you observe the time frames for this spraying otherwise the plant will flower and seed before it dies.
You need to speak to a vet about products that neutralise the cat smell. I would suggest spraying the area with a baking soda solution or vinegar solution but I do not know if this will be effective.
20 April 09: Hi we have a varity of these and suddenly they have just started dying and we cant work out why. What diseases should we be looking out for. they are very large trees - been here about 20 years. there are about 6 large ones and 2 are completely dead already
... Have a look for borer holes and "frass" on the stems and branches, if borer are present they will be negatively impacting on the trees health. I would advise removing the trees if they have borer or at least trying to prune out all the affected wood.
If there are no borer holes the tree may be suffering from root issues such as phytophera or simply lack of water.
Try watering with "No More Root Rot" to address any root issues, Kings branches stock this product.
ALWAYS Water deeply on a regular basis.
20 April 09: Hi there, I have zero knowledge re gardening or plants. I would like to know what is a good indoor plant, that makes quite a feature, as I am looking to put one in our lounge area. It will not be in direct sunlight.
... Thank you for your enquiry I love new gardeners that ask these good questions.
The most hardy and forgiving indoor plant is the Spathiphyllum this will tollerate a degree of mistreatment and show you how it feels with limp leaves, then pick up again with the correct water and food. This plant has large white flowers and dark glossy green leaves.
Your best option is to go into your local Kings branch and ask the friendly staff for their help, try dropping the botanical name and impressing them! They will give you some options and the information on how to grow them successfully if you ask them.
I am always here to help so don’t hesitate to contact me should you need advice.
19 April 09: I agressively prunned large and small leaf pittisporiums in Sept last year, they were approx 5m tall. They started growing again sprouting new growth, however after Jan when we came back from holiday noticed that there were some dead leaves on the small leaf Pittisporiums in particular. Over the next month the small leaf trees died completely. Now the large leaf (believe lemon) have started dieing. The bark is splitting on the limbs and trunk and starting to fall off, have noticed that there is some borer. Is it the borer causing the bark to split? and anything I can do to help? Failing this what is a fast growing tree /hedge that is not prone to borer to use along a fence line for privacy
... Firstly have you watered the trees at all? This was a hot summer and your plants will have been in water deficit stress without watering, this will have left them more vulnerable to attack by all pests and diseases.
The Borer will, most certainly, be impacting on the health of the trees. There is a cure for borer but only if you have one or two holes. I would recomend removing the affected trees.
Eugenia is most probably your best substitute, it does grow quickly and is very tollerant of hard pruning. You will need to prune this at least every 4 months to retain the shape and size desired, the more frequently you prune the longer you retain the trees at the size you desire.
A slower growing plant is Griselinea that would give you a good result also.
Kings branches continuously stock both Eugenia and Griselinea.
19 April 09: Can I move a fully grown meyer lemon tree. It is a prolific cropper and seems to have lemons all year round. We need to move it maybe three meters as it is shading a veggie garden and glass house. Can you tell me when and how.
... I believe you can move a fully grown citrus tree.... However...
1 - You need to water the tree deeply a couple of days prior to digging the tree out.
2 - Dig and prepare the new hole prior to digging the tree out, make sure you dig a hole bigger than the rootball should be.
3 - Dig a rootball that is a large as you are physically able to dig it. Remember the roots will extend to the drip-line(the zone where water drips off the leaves onto the ground around the plant), but it is not necessary to dig this big, try digging a rootball that is about 1mt in diameter and .5mt deep... yes I know that this is big but if you aim for this at least you will get a reasonable rootball.
4 - Mix compost and Citrus Food withthe soil in the bottom of the new hole.
5 - Shift the tree into the hole and back-fill the hole around the rootball with soil and compost.
6 - Place Stakes in around the rootball to stabilize the tree.
7 - Tread the soil down firmly with your heel as firmly as you can. Make sure the rootball does not sit above the level of the surrounding soil, it must be covered by at least 5-10cm of soil and this level then needs to sit below the level of the surrounding soil so it is sitting in a dish.
8 - Secure the tree to the stakes with tree ties.
9 - Feed with Citrus Food and water deeply.
10 - Prune the tree back by 1/3 to reduce leaf area and spray with Vaporguard to reduce transpiration. You can get Vaporguard from Kings branches.
11 - Shift the tree in late Autumn/Winter when it is cooler.
Follow the above and you should have success.
19 April 09: We had a lemon (Meyer?) and an orange tree. Recently we planted a Golden Special grapefruit and Encore mandarine trees next to the other two. Will the fruits become full of seeds because of cross-pollination? We could still move the grapefruit and/or the mandarin away, if we had to.
... You may increase the quantity of seed with cross pollination however they will not become full of seeds. Moving the trees to another area may have a small influence but realistically Bees fly around a wide area and will undoubtedly visit all the trees around the garden. The effect of cross pollination is not dramatic so I would plant your trees where it suits you best, fertilize them well and water them deeply.
19 April 09: I purchased an ivory raspberry plant at the Auckland Flower Show. It has sprouted new canes and fruited really well on the canes that it already had. Do I prune or just leave it.
... Prune out dead, old and fruited canes so there are only strong new canes.
15 April 09: Can you tell me the right time to prune hydrangeas in Auckland, and also in Rotorua. many thanks
... Hydrangeas flower over Summer. Prune in the Autumn after flowering has finished.
Be cruel to be kind when pruning Hydrangeas, prune each stem back to 2-3 buds from the base and prune out any thin or spindly stems altogether. The harder you prune the better result you will get in the following spring.
Side dress with Kings Garden Booster in Spring then monthly with Kings General Garden Fertilizer over the Spring and Summer.
15 April 09: Our well established Nikau (which is about 4 - 5m high) needs a bit of help. New branches grow for about 2 -3 feet and then go brown and die quite quickly. Is this normal? We live in Devonport and our soil dense clay. Is there anything we can do to help the health of the palm. Thanks
... You may find the roots of your palm are struggling to get into the clay or get any nutrients out of their environment. Nikau traditionally live in the rich soil of the forrest where there is plenty of compost and drainage.
I would advise you to add a good topdressing of Gypsum to the soil all around the palm, this will help break up the clay particles, and mulch with at least a 10cm thick layer of Kings Organic Mulch to enrich the soil and retain moisture. Water DEEPLY by sprinkler for at least 1hr at least once a week.
Should you continue to have issues I would advise having an arbourist or specialist from your local Kings branch come out to inspect your palm.
15 April 09: When do you prune a passionfruit vine? Also, what cre do you give it at this time of year? We live in Auckland.
... Cut back your vine after fruiting, only if it is too dense.This will allow better air movement and new laterals to develop on which fruit is formed.
One Passionfruit plant will last about 4-5 years and should give sufficient fruit for one family.
Feed generously in spring with a complete fertilizer such as Kings Garden Booster, then side dressings every 3-4 weeks with a high Nitrogen fertilizer such as Sulphate of Amonia.
Water deeply and frequently as Passionfruit have a surface rooting system and will dry out quickly.
15 April 09: Had a great morning at Kings Silverdale!!!! my stephanosis - what do I fertilise it with? Thanks
... If you are growing your Stephanotis outside in a sheltered spot in the garden, or inside/outside in a pot, I would feed it with Kings Fast Food, a liquid fertilizer, about once every 2-4 weeks over the growing season. This will give you good strong growth as well as flowers.
14 April 09: the correct way and time to prune a manderine tree .thanks.
... Mandarines usually only need pruning for shape after fruiting. Depending on the variety of Mandarine you have and where in the country you are I would, after the last fruit is picked, only prune out any weak or diseased wood, or long straggly branches growing outside the general framework of the tree.
You should be watering your trees deeply and feeding at least 4 times a year with Kings Citrus Food.
14 April 09: Our lawn is very bumpy to walk on. It’s like little hard mounds of dirt are under the grass. Can I level it by spreading a layer of sand? If so do I need to add seed to the sand or do you just let the grass grow up through the sand.
... You should use a roller on the lawn first to get it as level as possible, then get sufficient fine screened lawn top-soil and fill in the hollows. Repeat rolling and topdressing untill you get an even surface then broadcast a mix of seed and saturaid over the topdressed areas and lightly rake in. Water regularly with a fine sprinkler to ensure the soil remains moist.
7 April 09: I have a pine tree stump, what can i do to keep the sap from comming out of it
... The sap will rise till the stump dies. My advise is to cut it off at ground level and then employ a stump grinder to completely grind it up so that you can utilise the ground for other plants.
7 April 09: Please can you advise how to get rid of white fly> not keen on using toxic chemicals though!!!
... Your best solution for White Fly is the new Tui product Eco-Pest. This is a natural mix of oils that has no with-holding period and controls Aphids, Caterpillars, White Fly and Scale without impacting the beneficial bugs in your garden.
Remember to spray the leaves on the top side and underneath as well as this is a contact spray and works by smothering the pests.
Or you can use Aquaticus Glow with Natures Way Pyrethrum, another natural combination of products using oils. Kings stock all of these products.
7 April 09: Hi can peastraw be used in winter for growing vegs please.
... There is a "digless" method of veggie gardening that uses Pea straw. I would suggest this could be used in all seasons.
Pea straw is also excellent for mulching around your plants in all seasons as this helps retain moisture and suppress weeds.
7 April 09: Hello, I am wondering if you have tuberose bulbs in stock. When should these be planted? Are they OK for pots - do they form deep roots? (How deep a pot is required?) Is a general potting mix ok? And, how much are the bulbs. Does each bulb produce only 1 stem of flowers?
... Tuber Roses are a Summer flowering plant and are ordered about June for delivery to our garden centres Aug-Sep.
Tuber Roses do not like frost so plant where they do not get frosted or in a pot that can be moved to a sheltered position.
They prefer soil on the dryer side so do not OVER water, and they like plenty of bulb food over their growing season. Plant into bulb mix or ground that has high levels of peat or compost added ad good drainage.
Bulbs grow in clusters and each bulb is capable of producing a flower. Plant a cluster all together do not split. Plant many clusters about 8-10cm apart and about 7-8cm deep.
At this stage I can not advise the price as our supplier is yet to set this.
I advise you to call your Local Kings branch on 0900 PLANTS (Auckland area only), or contact a branch direct and discuss your requirements and place an order with them.
7 April 09: We went to purchase these from your Botany store yesterday, but did not due to the sizing listed on the Kings label 2m x 2m. Can you confirm the height these will achieve as on other plant websites it says 8m x 4m , 5-10m high etc, and we are wondering why there is such a big difference. Thanks.
... Here-in lies the difficulty with labelling. These plants will, after 10 to 15 years with NO pruning, attain a height of 5-8mt and 3-4mt wide.
However, if pruned to encourage dense growth, you can keep these as low as 1mt high. It really depends on how you treat the plants and what you want them to do for you. Kings labelling is produced with the assumption that you will be pruning to control the shape of your plants as this is the most common scenario.
7 April 09: Where do you use sulphate of Amonia? Is it a lawn feed or what
... Most powdered and granular fertilizer mixes use Sulphate of Amonia as the source of Nitrogen.
If using this neat I would be cautious to follow the application rates recommended on the pack to ensure you do not burn roots or plants.
You can use this occasionally but a balanced fertilizer mix is recommended for general use on both lawns and gardens.
7 April 09: I have recently stained my fence in black and the result was good. Unfortunately, birds like to sit on the fence and poo on it. As a results, there are quite a lot of white birds poo on the fence. Do you know any suitable products to apply on the fence to discourage birds to sit on the fence. Someone mentioned a product called " Hot Feet" but I can’t find it.
... I have seen Hot Feet but not for about 5 years.
We do stock a product called Bird Repeller Ribbon which comes in 15mt rolls for $13.99. Most branches should have this in stock.
You attach the ribbon to the fence and it shimmers in the light scaring away the birds.
2 Aprl 09: I have a Nikau Palm that has been growing in a pot for about 15 years. I want to transplant it into the garden but Ive heard they dont transplant well. Can you give me some advise on how best to do this as I dont want to have it die on me. The palm is about 5 foot in height from the base of the pot to the top of the palm. Or sould I just leave it in the pot. I feed it from time to time but the soil has never been changed in all those year.
... Oh your Nikau will love you for giving it its’ freedom.
You are correct that they do not like too much root disturbance so I would advise you dig a large hole and place compost in the bottom, mixing it well with the soil in the bottom of the hole.
Tap your palm out of the pot and with minimal root disturbance place the rootball into the hole. If you have roots going around and around the rootball like a spring it will pay to place 3 cuts with a sharp knife straight down the rootball through the outer roots to encourage the roots to branch and stop their circular growth. Do not tease the roots out.
If the palm is top heavy place a stake in the hole beside it and tie the palm securely to it with tree ties. This will support it against wind.
Fill the hole with a good soil and compost mix and then feed with palm food and water in deeply. Make sure the rootball does not sit above the surrounding soil level, plant so that it sits in a slight depression and the water runs toward the trunk and collects in a pool around the plant and does not run away. Water deeply at least once a week.
If you have a heavy clay soil break up the soil in the bottom of the hole and add a layer of scoria to help drainage. Also it helps to add gypsum soil life to the soil, this helps break down the clay particles.
31 Mar 09: At the finish of flowering last year the tree started to look really poorly with some rusty looking leaves. I sprayed with Fungacide then Insectdeside & it seemed to recover but of late it is still looking under stress with rusty leaves or is it red spider mite. Would really appreciate your help as it has been a very prolific flowerer about October It is about 5 years & we live fairly near the Coast
... If it is mites you will see on the underside of the leaves tiny webs, spiders and a dusty flour-like residue. You need to spray with Mavrik and Conqueror oil a number of times to effectively control mites, and you must spray under the leaves as well as on top.
Below is information I got from the Garden Science website:
Physiological disorders result from climatic changes, nutritional imbalance or inadequate drainage, and can usually be rectified by changing the environmental conditions. Algae and lichen may grow on leaves in shady humid conditions. They have no effect on the health of the plant but can be controlled with a spray of copper oxychloride. Camellia cultivars with white or pale pink flowers are more delicate than cultivars with darker-coloured flowers and may develop brown petals from exposure to sun or wind. Shading from extremes of weather and careful pruning to prevent blooms from rubbing against other parts of the plant are recommended. Extreme frost or changes in temperature can induce buds to drop before flowering. Transferring the plant to a more sheltered part of the garden could solve this problem.
Chlorosis of the leaves could be due to natural senescence, a genetic condition, or it may be caused by extended dry periods resulting in dehydration, or an excess of water with poor drainage. Chlorosis caused by alkaline soils, which prevent iron and other nutrients being available in a soluble form, can be ameliorated by applying acid fertilisers, compost, and iron chelate or iron sulphate. Yellowing between green veins in the leaves can indicate lack of iron or magnesium, readily corrected by application of sulphate of iron or magnesium sulphate. Corky scabs on the undersides of leaves can result from plants absorbing more water through the roots than the leaves can transpire (oedema), and can occur through over-watering. It can also occur in Camellias with a large root mass and little foliage.
Bronze patches on leaves can occur in some cultivars exposed to hot sunny conditions as a result of sunburn. Shade solves the problem. Potassium deficiency can result in brown patches on leaves and can be corrected with potassic superphosphate. An excessive build-up of salts in the soil can result in edges of leaves turning brown, and is usually corrected by thorough watering to wash the salts from the immediate root zone.
As we have had such a hot dry summer I would look at how you have watered the plant and make sure that you are watering deeply and regularly to reduce water-deficit stress.
30 Mar 09: We have a north facing property (Auckland) and I am keen to plant some tropical plants like hibiscus, gardenia, bird of paradise and will attempt frangipani. Would the north facing aspect be suitable for all these plants (they will be in full sun all day). What would I need to add to soil to ensure best results? What is the difference between Fijian and Hawaiian hibiscus? Which variety of Gardenia would be best (fragrance and blooms)? Best aspect for frangipani? Will regular pruning of gardenia and hibiscus prevent the shrubs becoming woody with not many leaves?
... A north facing aspect is fine for all these plants given good mulching of the soil and consistent deep watering.
For best results add 3 bags of Kings Organic Compost to every 2 mt2 of garden. dig the compost into the soil to a depth of 1 to 2 spade depths. Top dress the soil with Kings General Garden Fertilizer. After planting mulch with a good layer (6-10cm) of Kings Garden Mulch.
Fijian Hibiscus are a sub tropical plant with generally small more prolific flowers and smaller leaves. Hawaiian Hibiscus are a tropical plant and have the larger flowers and leaves. Both will grow well in Auckland in frost free areas.
The Gardenia you choose is up to you as all will grow well in these conditions given good mulching of the soil and consistent deep watering.
Frangipani will grow in most frost free locations with good sharp drainage to establish a good root run.
Gardenia require pruning for shape once a year just before the new shoots start to develop in Spring. Hibiscus benefit from a hard prune, by about 1/2 to 2/3, after flowering.
I advise you to call your Local Kings branch on 0900 PLANTS (Auckland area only), or contact a branch direct and discuss your location and desired plant types, they will happily help you with your plant sellection.
30 Mar 09: I got strawberry plants from Kings last summer and they were terriffic - great fruiters! How do I look after them over winter - they are in a raised bed so I can’t move them, but how can I look after them so that they are ready for next summer?
... Strawberries will bear well for about 3 seasons and I recommend starting a new bed in the autumn of the third season with certified disease-free plants such as you get from Kings Plant Barn.
In Autumn tidy up the plants and remove any dead leaves. The plants will survive happily over winter, albeit look rather shabby and lose their leaves. In Spring tidy them again and begin feeding first with Kings Garden booster then every 10 to 14 days with Kings Fast Food. As the plants develop and send out runners, trim these runners off and mulch around the plant with pea straw.
30 Mar 09: I have a Pyrostegia Venusta that did well last year but no flowers and this year the leaves have dried and dropped off. I can see no bugs and treat it no different from last year - what is wrong?
... Pyrostegia, Orange Flame Vine, is a prolific flowerer on current seasons growth. The fact that the leaves have dried and dropped off tends to suggest that you are unde-watering it and I would advise sprinkling Saturaid onto the soil all around it and watering in deeply, this will improve the water spread evenly throughout the soil. You then need to water deeply to ensure the soil is moist but never dry nor sodden.
Feed your plant with Kings Liquid Fast Food at least once a month and you should see an improvement.
30 Mar 09: We moved into a new house a year ago. We planted lettuce, tomatoes, cauli, broccoli and corn. The soil is very dark coloured and looks rich. The foliage grew well on all plants but the corn had small cobs with sparse kernels. The cauli didn’t form a ball and sprouted little bits all over the place. The tomatoes were big and abundant but were very floury. The broccoli was OK. There is some kind of conifer and manuka growing close to the garden. What’s up with this?
... Your soil does sound good but may just be lacking in nutrients. Here are some basic rules:
1 - Always add Kings Garden Booster to the soil when preparing to plant at the begining of each season. This will ensure a good balance of nutrients in the soil. Nitrogen is lost from slow release fertilisers first so for best results use a liquid fertiliser such as Kings Fast Food every 2 weeks as well.
2 - N.P.K.
o N = Leaf development
o P = Root development
o K = Flower and fruit development
3 - Consistant deep watering is essential. Hand watering with a hose more often than not underwaters your plants and forces their roots to the soil surface where they burn in the suns warmth. Letting the soil dry out in between waterings reduces even water penetration of the soil and you will get dry pockets in your soil. Sprinkle Saturaid onto your garden and water in to improve even water penetration of the soil.
4 - Corn is a summer plant and best planted in spring in blocks of several rows and in a sheltered position. Our corn was poor this season as we had a severe infestation of Green Shield Bug that developed when we were away over Christmas. The cobs were very small and few. Corn requires good consistent watering.
5 - Broccoli and Cauliflower are Autumn and winter plants and require high nitrogen levels and good consistant watering. You should be top-dressing these with a liquid fettilliser such as Kings Fast Food every 10 to 14 days. If planted too late in the season they will not form one big head but will be more likely to bolt rapidly into flower from multiple leaf axels. Cauli needs a good plant formed before the really cold weather so it is best to sow in Jan/Mar.
6 - Tomatoes require very consistant watering and feeding. Fruit will be floury and have a leathery skin if the plant has not had adequate water. Feed every 10 to 14 days with Kings Tomato Food.
The conifer and Manuka will not be an issue from a soil ph perspective however they will be drawing all the moisture out of the soil.
So improve your watering and feeding regime and as a last resort remove the conifer and perhaps the Manuka.
30 Mar 09: Hi there, I was given a Rose spray to use: Baking Soda, Veg Oil, Hand soap, Eucalyptus oil. I am a little worried about the Eucalyptus Oil, do you think it will be okay sprayed on my roses. I was told its excellent for Black Spot..... I look forward to your reply.
... Tui have just released a product containing eucalyptus oil for control of aphids, caterpillars, white fly and scale, and so I believe this will be quite safe in your spray.
My only concern is that we always warn against using an oil on plants in the hot summer months as it can burn the leaves of the plant. We do suggest in the warmer months you reduce your oil by 50% to reduce the burn risk. As the weather cools and the sun is not so strong you can use the standard strength solution of oil.
30 Mar 09: I have a apple tree that is at least 60 years old it has a apple that has a very deep red to purple skin and will polish up like a mirror, and the flesh is a green colour. As a kid I remember this tree was always only about tree foot high, we moved it when my parents moved house and it produced more apples this was about 10 years ago and still the same size tree. When my parents died I moved the tree to my place cut off a few dead trunkie branches and now this is the second year in place . I have not had any blossom but it is growing like mad , I have stalks growing up about 2 meters high, I did prune it last year but again no blossom, My question is how should I prune it this year and will I get fruit from it.
... Your apple is most likely a Red Delicious, we had a very prolific tree similar to your description.
Apple trees bear fruit on spurs and two year old or older laterals. Fruiting wood is encouraged by allowing laterals to develop on terminal branches and remain uncut until buds form. You can then shorten if necessary. You may find you have removed much of the fruiting wood and this will take 2 years to come back into action.
Shifting plants from one open ground location to another will often shock them and may negatively impact flowering and fruiting.
The other thing to look at is are the remaining branches above the graft. You should always prune off ALL shoots coming from the root stock wood below the graft. Even at 60 years old you should be able to see the transition from rootstock to grafted on fruiting wood.
Your tree sounds very healthy, it would seem that you simply have to get your pruning correct.
27 Mar 09: I have a panga planted about three years ago and have it in a darkish, damp corner. I notice mosquitos flying around it in the evening (Auckland). How can I get rid of the mosquitos without harming the plant & protect it from further infestations? Thanks.
... I believe you have a Ponga Fern, these thrive in moist areas however it will not be the ponga producing the mosquitos. It is more likely that there will be a pocket of water lying somewhere that they are breeding in. Mosquito larvae require a body of water to live in. It is the breeding ground you must find and then tip some Conqueror Oil onto the water. The oil will spread over the water and prevent the Mosquito larvae from breathing and they will die.
Fly spray should kill the flying adults.
26 Mar 09: Could you please recommend a specimen tree that would be suitable for planting near a pool. It would have to be an evergreen and a medium size if possible.
... There are two issues to consider when choosing a pool-side tree:
1 - Roots. You require a tree with a limited root-run so you prevent issues with roots pressuring and breaking concrete, tiles etc. Realistically the best Genus of plants with the most contained root-run is the Palm Genus. I would NOT recommend the Phoenix or other palms with spikes or teeth on their leaf stems as these are not child friendly. Perhaps the King, Queen or Bangalow Palm, there are a myriad of superb specimine palms that are either multi trunked or single trunked that you could look at. Another option is Citrus trees these can be stunning as standardised specimines or left to grow as a shrubby tree. These will drop fruit onto the pool or ground but they will give you a more English look as opposed to the Palm or Tropical look.
2 - Leaf and fruit drop. Minimise the pool maintenance by selecting an evergreen tree with large leaves, tropical is usually good. Some possibilities are the Umbrella tree (Schefflera actinophylla) or the Puka (Meryta sinclarii). Steer clear of conifers, deciduous trees, Grevilleas, free flowering trees etc.
25 Mar 09: Hi there, I purchased 2 Jacara palms from you about 8 months ago and until recently they were looking good, however about a month ago one of them started turning brown. There was a new shoot which opened lovely and green and then proceeded to die. Now the other two fronds have also gone brown and are dieing. I originally had this in full sun inside, so i moved it to morning sun only, then out of the sun altogether but it doesnt seem to have helped. The other palm is not in the sun at all but gets plenty of light. Until a couple of weeks ago it also was fine but new growth coming out and it is also turning brown. I have had palms in the past which i inadvertantly killed by over watering - could it be the same or am i underwatering this time? I water them both once weekly, about a cup each time. Can i cut back the almost dead one in the hope it regrows? Your assistance most appreciated as i hate to see beautiful palms dieing like this! Cheers
... Unfortunately I think your palms are suffering from the most commonly misunderstood issue... Under-watering.
1 cup of water is a very small amount to be giving a growing plant unless it is in a pot that is no more than 3-4 cups in volume. It takes 1 cup of water to adequately water 3-4 cups of soil. If the soil dries out in the week prior to you watering again then the new water will simply run down the sides of the pot between the soil and the pot and out the bottom, only wetting the surfaces that it contacts. I fear, in your endeavours to correct your previous problems of over-watering, you have put your plants into water deficit stress. Fill a bucket with water and stand the potted plant into this, if it floats to the surface you can be sure you have been underwatering your plant. I advise you to sprinkle some Saturaid onto the soil in the pots and water deeply to ensure the soil is always moist, this will promote good water spread through the soil. Feed with a good palm food monthly through the spring and summer then every 2-3 months through the cooler months.
With under-watering usually comes attack by Mealy Bug. This is a sucking pest that will typically infest the roots and leaf axles. The plant will fail to thrive and often die unless you spray the plant and drench the root-ball and soil to eradicate it. Confidor is a low toxicity spray that you can use for this. Fill a bucket with Confidor solution and stand the potted plant into this allowing to soak for about 20 minutes or untill the rootball is thoroughly saturated. Spray the plant at the same time with the same solution.
This along with the fact that you had them in full sun in the house through windows I assume. Glass magnifies and intensifies sunlight and will easily burn new foliage. As the sun sits lower in the sky towards Autumn/Winter your Palms may have been getting more sun than you thought.
Please, if you wish, take them into the branch you purchased them from and discuss their care with our friendly knowledgeable staff in-store.
Here is some cultural information I found on them:
Euterpes are from Brazil. They are a slender tall trunked fan palm with prominent crown-shaft and graceful dark green fronds. They are easy to grow but suited to warm temperatures. They are fast growing and benefit from fertilizer and regular watering. When young protect from full sun and cold winds. Needs rich moist soil in sheltered position, will tolerate to 0 degrees.As an indoor plant they tolerate dark positions and neglect, but respond well to bright locations with well drained but moist soil.
The above I believe reinforces my focus on watering and feeding.
I would not recommend cutting the stem back unless there is a secondary shoot still growing as palms are generally apical growing(from the end tip) and do not send out side shoots.
25 Mar 09: Hi, I have just removed a monstrous ( 3 -4m tall) privet tree from my section and was wondering what is the best way to ensure that the nasty beast does not grow back.
... These are, as you say, nasty beasts!
I would advise drilling holes in the freshly cut stump or stems and filling these with Amitrole. Cover the stump with plastic to prevent animals and rain getting in. Amatrol is active in the plant and ground for 6 weeks so do not plant anything for at least 6 weeks from your application.
Any new shoots that appear simply paint with Amitrole as soon as you see them. Do not then be tempted to cut these off straight away as the herbicide needs time to work and penetrate.
This should give you effective control.
25 Mar 09: Hi there I am looking for 5 x leacuathe and 4 x rubra daphne bushes do you have any in stock and what size (height) and cost. If not am I too early as they are usually a winter flower
... You are right on the button that they are winter flowering and as such they are generally in store from around mid May.
We have 3 grades coming in this season, $19.99, $24.99 and bucket grade 2yr old plants for $39.99. (Please note all quoted prices are subject to change over time and as a result of supplier charges)
As these are a popular line I advise you to call your Local Kings branch on 0900 PLANTS (Auckland area only), or contact a branch direct, as listed on our web site, and place your order and details with them in their order book. This way you will receive yours as soon as they are in store.
24 Mar 09: Why are the skins on my cocktail tomatoes splitting just prior to harvesting
... Skin Split is usually the result of heavy watering after a dry period where the skin has lost some of its elasticity and thickened so it splits with the fruit swelling with the newly available moisture.
To avoid this you must water and feed consistently and deeply constantly throughout the growing season, not letting the plants dry out at all.
23 Mar 09: Invasive bamboo has established itself in my property. It is everwhere! Any suggestions?
... The only successful way of getting rid of Bamboo, that I have tried, is cutting down the Bamboo then as it re-shoots paint all the new shoots with Amitrole.
I did this over a period of 6 months and I achieved absolute control over the Bamboo. Every morning I would go out and there would be a host of fresh "Asparagus-like" spears poking up out of the lawn and garden. I painted these daily as they are the soft growing tips and a systemic herbicide will travel easily through their cells as opposed to the hard woody fully grown stems. Don’t be tempted to then cut these off straight away as the herbicide needs time to work and penetrate. Over the 6 month period the new shoots became less and less. When I was confident that I had killed the whole plant I dug the clump and as many of the old underground roots and shoots out , waited for a couple of weeks to see if I got any new shoots then fertilized and mulched my garden and re-planted it.
Amatrol is active in the plant and ground for 6 weeks so do not plant anything for at least 6 weeks from your last application.
This is a long process but the end result is well worth the effort as you will gain back your garden. It is amazing how much land and space you will reclaim when you get rid of the Bamboo.
23 Mar 09: We have a Conference pear tree which is espailiered as we have a really small section. We have mislaid the label from the tree and wish to know what time of the year is the fruit usually ready for picking?
... Conference Pears are generally picked around March depending on the climate in your area. Keep the fruit for at least 1 week befor eating and they should last for at least 4 weeks given good storage conditions.
These are good Pears for the home gardener to grow as they are slightly more tolerant of unfavourable conditions and have good disease resistance.
23 Mar 09: hi there i have been admiring neighbors phoenix palms and have a plan for a native/tropical/bush for our garden. what can you tell me about phoenix palms vs. other types for this area (kohimarama)? What costs for different sizes? What do we need to know about planting?
... The Phoenix palm is an attractive palm especially when they start to develop a vertical trunk after about 10 years. There are two commonly grown species, P. canariensis which grows to about 6mt high in about 20 years, or P. roebellinii which is called the Dwarf Date Palm and grows to about 4mt but takes many years to do this.
P. roebellini can be grown in containers or in the garden, P. canariensis is best grown in the garden. Plant adding Kings Organic Compost and Kings Garden Booster to the soil, mix these well with the soil around the hole and top dress with a little more Garden Booster.
P. canariensis does have long spikes along the leaf stems that can be nasty if you get spiked with them so you need to be mindful of this if their are children playing in the area. For this reason I would personally plant a Bangalow Palm or a King Palm. There are so many different palms available, have a look on our web site, click on Growing Guides on the top options bar on the home page then click on Palms. This will give you a guide to types and growth habits etc.
For grades and prices you would be best to call your local Kings branch on 0800PLANTS, or call Lesley and her team at Kings Remuera direct on 09 5249400, to discuss your requirements. They will be only too pleased to help you with your selection.
19 Mar 09: I have two vouchers issued by your howick branch on 18/10/02. Please confirm they are still valid. They are still in original condition.
... Absolutely your vouchers are still valid. There is no expiry date on our vouchers and all branches will happily redeem them.
As they are so old I would recommend redeeming them at a Kings branch but if you are unable to do this, simply get the shop you do go to to ring our head office on 09 4109726 for confirmation if they are unsure.
19 Mar 09: My house is reached by steps leading up from the street. Across the road is the harbour and sou’westerly winds frequently blow. Beside the steps are planter boxes in which grew grisilinea - quite happily for 4 years until this last 6 months when they started dying. I have had them taken out and now wonder what I should replace them with. The boxes are above the steps at about head height. I’m getting very confused about whether I should have a variety of plants or just one type or alternating and then which would be most resistant to the conditions. Please help!
... The most important thing to do first is remove all the old soil and roots from the boxes as this will be very depleted of nutrients and organic matter. Fill the boxes with Kings Container Mix as this is specially formulated to give good water spread and retention through the soil and have a ballenced nutrient content.
The trend is to block plant one variety of plant, such as you had with your Griselinea, this gives a strong visual effect and is easier to maintain as you prune and treat all plants the same.
Native plants are your best option as there are so many that are tolerant of coastal conditions. Some options are Griselinia, Corokia, Hebe, Metrosiderous Springfire, Dodonea (Akeake).
I advise you to Google these and read about them, or pop into your local Kings branch and discuss these with one of our friendly, knowledgeable staff. They will be able to show you the plants and help you in your decision making.
If you only want a low feature you could plant Hebe, Agave attenuata, Aloe etc.
17 Mar 09: Hi Guys. Would you be able to point me in the direction of a company that does professional fruit tree spraying? we have about 8 trees on our property that we need done and I dont know where to look.
... Kings use only one company for all spraying over our 7 branches. We receive excellent service from them and I would recommend them to you.
New Leaf Horticulture, contact Bruce, Ph 0800476967. New Leaf operates in the greater Auckland area and will go outside this area also.
Let them know I have recommended you call them.
17 Mar 09: Ijust purchased a live peach tree and would like to know if I’m supposed to remove the burlap sack around the roots before I plant the tree?
... Yes you do remove the sacking or bag as you want to give the roots the best opportunity to reach out into the soil.
Dig a good sized hole for the size of the root-ball. Add Kings Organic Compost or your own compost and some Kings General Garden Fertilizer, then mix in with the soil in the bottom of the hole.
Remove the bag or burlap sacking from the root-ball and spread the roots out around the hole.
Fill the hole to the old soil level on the tree, this is usually visible and certainly below the graft.
Sprinkle more Kings General Garden Fertilizer over the soil around the trunk then water deeply.
17 Mar 09: Hi I bought some karaka seed potatoes from you. The shoots are approx10-12" high not bushy, one long ’branch’. My question is, I didnt take notice when I planted the potatoes, and dont know when they will be ready. Do they flower, will they just die back when ready or what else can I look for without digging them up too early. I think they have been planted for a couple of months.
Ive learned a lesson, always put on my calendar the date I plant things! As you can see im a beginner gardener.
... With Potatoes, as the tuber’s stems and leaves first start to break the soil surface you mound up the soil to cover them, and keep mounding the rows till you have a mound about 30-40cm high. this will take a month or so. Then let the stems grow up and out of the soil. About 3 months after planting you can start harvesting your new potatoes, or as in your case you can wait till the leaves start to go yellow and wither and then dig your potatoes. You do not need to dig them all at once you can just dig a plant at a time if you choose.
Potatoes do flower but this is not a factor in determining tuber formation.
Let me know your address as, if I can, I will send you a gardening diary as I think I have one left. I can not tell you of all the times I have made the same mistake so a garden diary is a well worthwhile tool.
16 Mar 09: Two of my queen plams seem to have developed root ball rot. They are approx 5 metres high now and I wonder if there is any way to save them. We have removed all other vegetation from the garden around them including astelias and cannas to allow maximum ventilation. We have also staked them well and are now wondering about digging in more free draining mix to soil, or building up a more free draing stone garden around etc. My question is is there any way to treat the rot problem or are we better to cut palms out and start again. The same palms in a higher part of the walled garden around our pool are doing brilliantly but iiam conscious the drainage there may be better. although there is potential run off from a higher property they seem in good health. At present the garden where the problem palms are does not appear very wet but with North shore clays etc the lower drainage may not be that good. You can see part way under the palm where it has rotted away now that we have removed garden around. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
... I am cautious of commenting without seeing the plants. It does seem that you have done the right thing by removing surrounding foliage. Is the trunk rotten or could an animal or insect have burrowed under the trunk destroying the roots?
If it is fungal damage then you need to clean the wound back to healthy tissue, if possible, and drench-spray with a systemic fungicide and paint with a wound dressing that contains a fungicide and bactericide. You also need to drench the soil with the fungicide as well for about 1mt radius around the plant stem. You will need to repeat this drenching over a period of 6 - 12 months.
If it is insect or animal damage you need to spray with a systemic insecticide, clean and spray as above then build the soil up around the roots to just below the base of the trunk. Covering the trunk may cause rot.
If you are on clay I advise using Gypsum Soil Life to break down the clay particles in the soil. Use this in conjunction with good Kings Organic Compost to add fibre and nutrients to the soil. You can also add sand if your soil is very heavy.
As these palms must be a structural part of your garden and a point of focus I would advise you to contact an Arborist and get them out to look at your plants and recommend the best course of action. I have contacted Robert Walls for you and discussed your issues with him. He is happy to come and look at your palms as he has had experience with this issue previously. He does feel that Queen Palms have this tendancy to hollow out at their base but can live on for many years unaffected. You can contact Robert on 0276116503, I recommend him as exceptionally qualified and professional in his field.
16 Mar 09: My roses this year have a very heavy infestation of thirps /whitefly and others. I am sparying regulary with Super Shield, and also I used Target last week. Hoiwever there are still maynynsects. Can you recommend other sparys or how many times I shouldbe sparying. This year seems to be particulary bad? All my roses were purchased from your stores and are otherwish healthyt plants.
... At this time of year, in fact from Christmas to May-June, we recommend changing from Super Shield to Shield as Shield has a systemic Insecticide as well as systemic fungicide. In the drier months thrips and white fly tend to proliferate as they enjoy the dry. They also typically live on the under-sides of leaves where it is harder to spray and saturate them with a contact insecticide such as that in Super Shield.
As the weather cools you can add a spreader such as Conqor Oil, or the more organic Aquaticus Glow and this will help spread and stick of the spray. We do not recommend this over the hot summer months as the oil can burn the leaves in the hot sun.
Both Shield and Glow are available from all Kings branches.
Target is systemic but will most likely not control the thrips. It is also a harsher chemical not organic. This is a good alternative to Super Shield but I do suggest Shield as the best option.
It is always good to change the sprays you are using so that the bugs and diseases do not become resistant. Change them every 3 or so months.
11 Mar 09: Hi, I would like to start up a herb garden and a separate vege garden. I have two bits of land that I can use for this. Once upon a time they were gardens, but now they’re just full of weeds, grass, and old succulents. What do I have to do to prepare the soil for the herbs and veges? How do I go about converting the old gardens into successful, prosperous herb and vege gardens? Where do I start!
... My best advice is as follows:
1 - Plan your garden so that you have 3 areas for crop rotation, have a look at our crop rotation guide on the web site, you will find it under Growing Guides.
2 - Remove all weeds and plants from your planned area and dig in 1.5-2 bags of Kings Organic Compost per mt2 of garden. Add Kings General Garden Fertilizer to the planned area 200g per mt2. Dig at least 1 spade depth and turn the soil and compost to mix, each time you add compost the soil becomes easier and easier to dig and weed.
3 - Herbs and Veggies are often good companion plants so there is no real need to have separate gardens, Tomatoes and Basil are great together, Nasturtiums deter aphids.. there are lots of combinations you can use to benefit your plants.
4 - Plant your veggies and herbs according to your plan, it is a good idea to keep a diary of what and where you plant, then your successes and failures so next year or season you can create an even better plan. The New Zealand Gardener Get Growing Garden Diary is taylor made for this and you can buy it on-line on our web site or pick it up from your local Kings branch..
5 - Remember to water deeply (.5 to 1hr with the sprinkler in 1 spot) about once a week over the cooler months... and NO rain is not always suficient watering, dig down 10cm and see if the soil is moist, if so then you don’t need to suppliment water.
6 - Feed your plants regularly with Kings Fast Food each month or Kings Garden Booster every 3-4 months.
7 - Get out into your garden every few days even if it is just to pull a tiny weed or two, water, or congratulate yourself on your good work... Enjoy it!
Don’t forget you can ask any questions you want of me on the web site or you can talk to our friendly knowledgeable staff in your local Kings branch. Make sure you are signed up as a VIP to get the discounts, newsletter and all the other benefits, this will help you along the way.
10 Mar 09: I live on a 5-acre lifestyle block and after landscaping a specific area for my vegetable garden found that just about everything I planted either failed to germinate or came up deformed. So I had the soil tested ... and it came up with an extremely high lime content which makes sense as I had noticed a lot of white stones which as it turned out are limestone â?¦ and I can now only assume there was an old limeestone roadway through the paddock . I do not want to shift the garden as it is in the right spot and would not like to dig and remove/ replace all the soil, as this will have to be done by hand and there is at least 200 sq metres I want to garden here. Anyway I have rotary hoed and removed as much stone as every rainfall highlights in this area over the past six months. My question now is what can I use to neutralise the lime content? And how much per square mtr?
... Firstly you need to be adding lots of compost as this is acidic in ph and will help.
Also at the same time add Kings Azalea Camellia and Rhododendron food, about 250gm/m2. A 10kg bag retails for $21.99. You would need about 5 bags.
As it is the sulphur in the fertilizer that neutralises the lime, you could use flowers of sulphur. Kings sell 500g bags for $7.99 but you would need 6kg = $95.88, however I can get you a 6kg pack for $39.99 or a 25kg pack for about $145.00. (Please note all quoted prices are subject to change over time, all prices quoted here are valid untill 29th March 2009)
I believe sulphur is the more expensive option as you also feed your plants as well with the Azalea food.
Keep picking out all limestone you find, unfortunately as it is a rock it will remain in the soil for many years. Also keep adding compost, and pine needles are said to have an acidic affect on the soil.
9 Mar 09: I am a real beginner and have been planting raised beds with a view to companion planting but what I have followed doesn’t really match the crop rotation guidelines. Having planted like this how do I start with my winter vege - do I feed the soil with lots of compost, divide into 3 and start there or what do you suggest.? ANy advice to crop rotate and companion plant? Try to be organic as poss but this summer our crop was adequate but could have been better and our garden is now filled with pests and powdery mildew.
As long as you follow the general rules of rotation you will be right. Keeping a diary really helps as it keeps a record of what you plant where and when and also the origional plan and adjustments. The new Zealand Gardener Get Growing Diary is an excellent book full of extra information and diary pages, well worth the small investment. It is available on-line and from all Kings Branches.
... It took me about 2 years to convince my husband to work with crop rotation and then we simply made a plan, dug lots of compost and general garden fertilizer into the soil and started the process. We have 3 veggie beds each divided in two. For each whole bed I plant an array of the plants in the planned group. As those crops finish I then replant them in the opposite end of the bed, this gives you an all year cropping of that group. in Spring I then rotate the groups planted in each bed.
There are always exceptions to the rule but as long as you follow the general process you will have success.
Companion plants should be treated similarly to the plants you are planting them with otherwise you will seriously do your head in trying to work out what should go where!
Always dig in compost and general garden fertilizer into the soil when re-planting, a green crop such as mustard can be very beneficial as well if you can spare the space.
The better you feed and water your plants the healthier they will remain as weakened plants are far more susceptible to attack. Look at the Aquaticus and Natures Way ranges for a good organic alternative plant health range. This time of year, still warm with increasing rain, is always difficult for mildews. Remove the affected leaves and burn or put out in the garbage and spray with Natures Way Fungus Spray regularly.
9 Mar 09: Hi there, I have been doing some reading, and I am completely confused as to how long Pansy plants live for. We brought some last year, and they have just started flowering again and showing lots of new sprouts. They are quite leggy, and I was wondering if I should trim them back, or should I just buy new plants. Also are you able to suggest some other VERY easy to grow, toddler friendly winter flowers? Many thanks
... It is easy to get confused with how plants grow as there are so many variables to consider.
In a cold winter climate Pansys are most definately classified as an annual - a plant that grows, flowers, fruits and dies in one season... HOWEVER in a more temperate of sub-tropical climate such as Auckland these plants may survive and flower again the next season, or their seeds will germinate and flower the next season. The second season however will most likely not provide such a spectacular display as the first.
I would advise you to remove the old plants and replant with fresh, compact and healthy young plants such as Primula, Salvia, Chrysanthemums, Marigolds, Dianthus, Cosmos, Dahlia, Arctotis, Alyssum, Carnations, Polyanthus, Iceland Poppy, Nasturtium, Verbena, Sweet Peas and Snap Dragons to name a few.
The best guide to what to plant is what is currently in stock in the garden centres, you will always find the plants that will grow best for the current time of year. Select your own collection of the varieties and colours you want for your garden.
As far as being toddler friendly... get them out planting the garden with you, in old clothes of course! They will have a wonderful time with the dirt, worms, trowell and rake... and what a wonderful introduction to gardening. Most plants sold are not toxic to humans as we endeavour to remove those from our buying lists, however it always pays not to let the littlies eat your ornamental plants.
9 Mar 09: when can I prune gardenias and by how much?
... You should only prune your Gardenias just prior to them starting their Spring flush of growth - in Late winter, early Spring ie late August/September.
Prune for shape only and prune back to a healthy leaf axel bud. To keep your plant compact and bushy I would prune by about a 1/3.
Start feeding your plant with Kings "Rhododendron, Azalea and Camellia Fertiliser" in September to produce good lush growth and flowers. These acid loving plants like Iron, Magnesium and Manganese in their diets. A deficiency in any of these elements will be evident by yellow leaves. Feed monthly and if you have a persistent yellow leaf problem add sequestrene to your feeding regime and this will green them up.
9 Mar 09: We two have two 1 yr old "Scarlett O’Hara" plants growing in pots on a concrete courtyard. They are trained on to a fence trellis & are 2m high & 2 m laterally. Initially they went well & flowered, but we now fear the roots have run out of room. Should we prune them before repotting into larger pots & are there any little secrets to doing this successfully?
... I would be potting them into pots that they can live happily in for several years as you do not want to be removing the trailers off their supports too frequently. You should be potting into at least a 40-50lt pot, leaving 5cm at the top for watering and feeding. Feed with Kings Pot Recharger at the beginning of each spring in September, and boost with Kings Fast Food every month during Spring and Summer.
Prune the trailers to the shape and plant form you require, remembering that the new growth will add to the size of the plant. Always prune back to a strong leaf axel bud that points toward the fence, this way you an keep training the new growth otherwise if you prune to an outside bud the stem will be a long arching stem coming outwards.
Bougainvilleas flower over Summer and then sit back and almost sulk over winter often losing their leaves, only starting to look lush and green again in October/November. Given frequent deep watering over the warmer months and then weekly over the cooler months, plus good feeding you should be rewarded with a sumptuous display next Summer.
Every 6 months you should top-dress with a good sprinkle of Saturaide as well, this promotes even water spreading through the soil which is always a problem with pots.
6 Mar 09: can we plant a lime and lemon tree side by side and still get fruit of both trees.
... Yes there is no problems with growing two citrus together, the more flowers you have the more bees you will attract to polinate an produce fruit.
Remember to feed with a good citrus fertilizer such as Kings Citrus Food, and water deeply over spring and summer through to autumn.
Also don’t be tempted to pick the fruit as soon as they have colour, as with most citrus the longer you leave them on the tree in the sun... the sweeter they get.
6 Mar 09: I have a frangipani which is about 3 or 4 years old, which up until recently was growing beautifully and had even flowered. Suddenly, two of the stems/branches turned a sickly cream colour (near the leaf growth) which crept down the stem and eventually turned it black. All the leaves fell off. My guess it was the air con (which wasn’t anywhere near it and we have used a few times in the past), or the robocan flyspray in our living area. I quickly placed it outside in our vege garden to recover. Well, it is trying, but the two stems that got most of the damage (there are only three) can’t seem to grow leaves now. I want to know if I can cut the black stems off after the growing season and will it recover if I do?
... Well done for growing it well for 3-4 years. Have you repotted it in that time?
It is recommended to always grow Frangipani outdoors with good air circulation or they become susceptable to stem and root rot, as well as mites and scale. You will also get much sturdier growth outdoors.
I believe you may have a fungal attack on your plant and this may have got in because the plant may have been weakened by mite damage. Give your plant a good spray with Mavrik and Glow, this will address any fungus and/or mites that may be present. Unfortunately it is always best to prevent fungus than cure it. Cut back the stems to good clean tissue and spray, as well as moving it outdoors this should strengthen and save your plant.
Click Here to See our Growing Guide for Frangipani NOW!
4 Mar 09: We have planted three batches of potatoes this year. The first in October - we ate them in December and they were lovely. We then planted the second batch in early November (red variety) and another batch in mid December. All plants from the 2nd and 3rd batches have looked incredibly healthy, have flowered but have produced NO potatoes - nothing! Not even tiny little ones. Are we doing something wrong?
... Have you planted each successive crop in the same place in your veggie garden?
Potatoes are very greedy plants for the nutrients they absorb from the soil to develop tubers. I have copied a section out of the "October Plant Of The Month" from the web site that gives you fertilizer application guidelines, see below;
Fertilise using Burnet’s Potato Food, spreading it along the trench at about 1/4 of a cup (100grm) per mt and covering it with about 5cm of soil from the sides. Place the tubers about 30cm apart and cover with soil, then adding a further 100grm of fertiliser per mt along the planting row.
This of course asumes good crop rotation is practiced. Have a look on the website under "Growing Guides" then "Vegetable Crop Rotation".
This is really the only issue that will cause such consistent crop failure except for inadequate watering.
New seasons potatoes are just coming into the Kings stores for your Winter crop. Try shifting where you plant them and fertilizing well.
4 Mar 09: You had an email that is published on your site from someone on 11 Feb asking about the safety of eating tomatoes that had white spots on the inside flesh that they had suspected green beetles had caused. I would like to add that the problem described I am sure are caused by the green shield beetles or stink bugs as I have had the very same problem and had found it hard to get any good advice on this. I have been finding an amazing amount of these beetles sitting on my tomatoes and yes they suck the sap and leave white spots at the edge of the tomato flesh when cut open. I too can not find out if it is OK to eat them, there seems such little info on it. Maybe it is pest problem that is more prevalent this year, but I find my pyrethrum sprays etc have not really affected them, they are persistent little blighters!
... Thank you for your enquiry. It is nice to know my site is read and appreciated.
Green Shield bugs are the culprit in this case I do agree after much research.
They are particularly prevalent this season and difficult to control, so you really need to use a systemic spray as it is difficult to contact all bugs with the contact sprays like Pyrethrum.
Try Mavrik mixed with the organic Aquaticus Glow.
2 Mar 09: I have a glasshouse that I have used for the first time this season. I had a wonderful crop of tomatoes and apple cucumbers. I tried to grow seeds but nothing happened - I did follow the instructions. Is it too hot to grow seeds in the glasshouse in summer? When is the best time to plant seeds? and how do you go about getting it right.
... A glasshouse is a wonderful addition to the garden and allows you to grow so many plants, fruit and veggies for a much longer period during the year.
With our high UV light levels, in Summer especially, you would be advised to use shade curtains under the glass or white-wash on the outside of the glass. I would place the seed trays under the benches where they will be in the shade, otherwise place the seed trays outside and cover with plastic till the seeds germinate.
Seedlings require good water availability especially if they are in heat otherwise they will dry out and die. They must be kept damp but not wet. They also require good air.
Most garden seeds generally will germinate at around 20 degrees, germination decreasing as the temperature drops. Some Spring flowering plants and Spinach will germinate at 15 degrees, and some Summer flowering plants need 25 degrees to germinate. Most seed packets will state the temperature range desireable for those seeds to germinate. it is a good idea to place a max/min temperature guage in your glass house to really see what is happening in the glasshouse.
Treat your seeds as living things, don’t leave in the sun or heat in a closed car as this will kill them quickly.
In my Great Growing Newsletter this week I will be talking about what seeds to be sowing and plants to be planting for March. Seeds can be planted all year, the trick is knowing when to plant seed that will germinate in time for for that plants optimum growing season.
The other thing to watch for is slugs and snails, they will make quick work of those lovely soft seedlings. Use Quash or Baysol to deter these pests.
25 Feb 09: Hi, I have 4 trees - avocado, pine nut, casimiroa and cherimoya which were all planted in 2002. All trees have grown really well, no bugs or problems and the avos particularly are very big. When can I reasonably expect to start seeing some fruit? The avos and casimiroa have had flowers which sometimes set fruit but which all fall off eventually. The other 2 have not had flowers. 7 years seems like a long time to get some action, please advise!!
... I would expect:
~ Avocado to start setting fruit after about 5 - 7 years.
~ Pine Nut to start producing cones between 6 - 12 years with full production in about 40 years.
~ Cherimoya and Casimiroa should start 2 -4 years after planting.
If your plants have been in the ground for 7 years as you suggest I would be looking at how you are treating them and the condition of the soil.
I advise you to go onto the Incredible Edibles web site www.edible.co.nz , here you will find planting, growing, fertiliser and care advice for all these plants.
When watering your trees make sure you water them deeply about once a week, not just a quick water with the hose.
If fertilising your plants make sure you are doing so with a high potash fertiliser, you may have too much nitrogen in the soil which is producing leaf and stem growth but no flower formation.
24 Feb 09: I have a concreted courtyard so every plant is in a pot. But I also have a trellised wall and that needs to be covered with a plant for some badly needed privacy! I have some bouganvillea at the moment but they just arent growing very well. Is there another hardy climber that can take its place that grows quickly? I live in Auckland.
... Bougainvillea is a very hardy climber and I would expect that, given good growing conditions, it would do well in your environment. Have you got it planted in a big enough pot?
I would recomend you plant a climber into a pot no less than 40-50lt capacity this will give it a good root area and room to grow.
Plant into fresh container mix as this will give best water spreading and storing , and nutrient ballance.
Feed with Kings fast food once a month and Kings pot recharger once a year.
Top dress with saturaid every 6 months to ensure best water absorption and retention.
Water deeply, till the water runs from the bottom of the pot, at least once a week.
Fast growing and lush options are:
~ Trachylospermum jasminoides "Star Jasmin"
~ Tecomanthe speciosa
~ Pyrostegia venusta "Flame Vine"

20 Feb 09: We are moving house soon and want to transfer a few young trees (one lemon, one lime and one olive tree) - what is the best way of doing that, to maixmise chances of success?
... I would be very cautious of shifting plants at this time of year due to the heat, traditionally the best time for moving in-ground/established plants is Autumn Winter.
Most kings branches do stock an excellent product for reducing moisture loss from plants during shifting: Vaporgard
Vaporgard is an organic film that has many uses such as a spray on frost cloth giving down to minus 3 degrees frost protection within 3 days of application.
Film lasts from 2 to 3 months or longer on foliage sprayed. (new foliage not protected)
Also great for moisture retention in plants (use on container plants in summer to reduce drying out)
Reduces shock on transplants, hardens off seedlings quickly, protects plants from wind chill, salt and sea spray damage.
If your local branch does not have it in stock they can easily order it in for you.
As well as using Vaporgard:
1 - Water the plant deeply prior to digging the root ball, this ensures the plant has plenty of stored moisture and is not in water deficit.
2 - Spray with Vaporgard.
3 - Dig a generous rootball around and under the plant. A littil more effort in digging and lifting a generous rootball will pay off when it is transplanted.
4 - Wrap the rootball in hessian or pot into a LARGE plastic pot.
5 - Keep the rootball moist at all times.
6 - Replant with good compost and citrus food.
7 - Water regularly and DEEPLY each week after transplanting.
You will have a thousand things to do when shifting into your new home but as long as you have removed and treated your plants well, and then you water well after shifting, you should be OK.
20 Feb 09: All through the summer I have used all sorts of sprays to get rid of the above to no avail. Help, what can I do and use?
... White Fly are persistent issues in gardens these days.
For flowering and fruiting plants use Mavrik as it is a low-toxic spray. For general garden use us Target.
When spraying make sure you saturate the plants both on top of the leaves and underneath this will give best effect.
Use a spreading agent with your spray to ensure the spray spreads over and sticks to the surfaces of the plants. We recommend Aquaticus Glow a spraying Oil, spreader/sticker, Fungicide and insecticide.
Aquaticus Glow is professional grade organic spraying oil for controlling insects and fungal diseases such as aphids, scale insects, mites, mealy bugs and powdery mildew. It can be used through the winter months as a clean up spray or through summer for control and eradication of insects and diseases. Applied in conjunction with Aquaticus Supernatural, Glow will enhance the effectiveness of most commonly used insecticides, fungicides and herbicides by acting as a spreader/sticker. Beneficial organisms that naturally occur in the soil will improve when Glow is applied directly to the soil. Applied on its own it makes a great leaf polish leaving indoor and outdoor plants glowing and healthy. Glow is perfect for vegetable gardens, herb gardens, Citrus, indoor/outdoor plants, lawns and compost heaps.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE
Spreader/Sticker: dilute 5-10mls of Glow to 1 litre of water. Apply using a garden sprayer in conjunction with pesticide treatments on the garden including insecticides, fungicides and herbicides.
Do not mix Glow with sulphur sprays or apply within 10 days either side of sulphur spray applications. Neither Target or Mavrik have Sulphur I believe.
We use Glow as a spreader in the garden centre with our other sprays and achieve excellent results.
Spray regularly as per the recommended regime on the pack.
Water deeply at least twice a week in this warm summer weather, deeply means putting the sprinkler on for at least 1/2 to 1 hour in each position. Plants become much more susceptible to insect attack if they are under any form of stress, e.g. water-deficit stress. Underwatering is the most common cause of issues in the home garden.
20 Feb 09: How do I store surplus potatoes?
... To store potatoes for eating you need to keep them in a dark, ventillated, cool, dry place. A hessian sack is a good bag to hold them as it allows ventillation and keeps them in the dark. Garages are often quite warm. We store ours under the laundry sink or under the house.
You can process your potatoes by par-cooking and freezing them, or mashing and freezing them.
Some people say putting an apple in the bag with them stops them sprouting shoots.
To store potatoes as seed potatoes for growing is, in my mind, not worth the trouble. You can buy a 1.5kg bag of certified, disease and pest free, high health and quality seed potatoes from Kings for only $7.99. You would get about 30 potatoes in a bag. Using your last seasons potatoes for next season does not guarantee disease free, hybrid vigour or quality.
17 Feb 09: I have a large crop of olives and I would like to know the easiest way to stone them.
... As a home grower you have some options;
1 - use a de-stoning tool and do them by hand, this would be a slow process but it would achieve your end goal. These tools can be purchased from any good cook shop.
2 - Contact a local grower and ask their advice. They may provide a service destoning olives for the home grower.
3 - Contact one of the Olive Growers Associations, this is one I found on the net: www.olivesnz.org.nz
4 - Contact Allendale who stock de-stoning machines. I believe these are large machines however they may be able to point you in the right direction to solve your issue; www.allendalegp.co.nz
17 Feb 09: All my plant outside are covered in spider webs, what can i use to kill the spiders, and not damage the plants.
Also I am by the sea, what would be a good apricot tree to plant the would bear plenty of fruit, that I good preserve and freeze.
... The product best suited to eliminating cobwebs in your garden and home is "30 Seconds Cobweb Eliminator". This is safe for animals and plants. All Kings Store a range of the 30 Seconds products.
Apricots traditionally prefer a cooler winter however there are som varieties that do suit our warmer climate:
Garden Annie
An early season fruiting variety, with good size, semi-freestone, bright yellow fruit which are firm and juicy. A highly ornamental tree that is semi-dwarf, so is well suited to home gardens especially in the warmer areas of the country.
Katy (Katy Cot)
Large, all-purpose flavourful freestone apricot well suited to warm-winter climates. Tree ripened fruit are incredibly good eating and also makes excellent jam. Early harvest. Self-fertile. Semi-dwarf - 4m.
Royal Rosa
Very early, freestone selection with tasty firm gold flesh, yellow skin with a red blush. Self-fertile. Relatively disease resistant, low chill selection recommended for home gardens throughout the country.
Sundrop
Excellent cropper with sweet and juicy yellow fruit with firm flesh over long season. Partially self fertile, but best planted with Trevatt for cross pollination. Suitable for many regions.
Tomcot
Very large, almost peach-sized fruit, which have a strong red blush over orange skin. High quality freestone fruit with an intense apricot flavour. Forms a compact tree, with masses of blossom in spring. Self fertile.
Trevatt
Large, sweet, juicy golden yellow fruit. Mid to late season. Eating or bottling. Recommended for most areas
17 Feb 09: Hi I have been planting eggplants for the last number of years without mush success. When the plant starts to fruit the leaves atart to sag and eventually go brownish and eventually the plant dies. Can you please advice what the problem is ant how I can resolve it.
... Aubergine, or Egg Plant, can suffer from a number of diseases:
White fly, Aphids, Sclerotinia, Fusarium and Verticillium Wilts are persistent problems.
Control measures for the first two pests are as for Tomatoes and Peppers, Nature’s Way Pyrethrum or Garlic and Pyrethrum are the best and safest for these fruits.
To minimise the latter 3 diseases it is best to avoid planting in heavy soils where surface water may increase the spread of root disease pathogens such as Verticillium and Fusarium. Spray with Greenguard as a preventative spray but should your plants fall prey to these diseases you should remove and destroy them. Do not compost them, dispose of in the garbage. It is best practice not to plant these same plants in this same soil for the next 3 years.
You could perhaps try growing in a large pot if you have no alternative bed space to plant into.
Remember that Egg Plant require good, deep, consistent watering.
17 Feb 09: Hi when do you plant rubarb, and can it be grown in a container.
... Rhubarb crowns are traditionally planted over the Spring and Summer months from September to April.
You can grow it in a container, making sure you plant into a generous sized container using Container mix not ordinary potting mix.
Rhubarb loves a top-dressing of sheep manure but you need to be cautious of the amount you use in a container as you can burn the roots. They are greedy feeders so feed regularly and water deeply at least once or twice a week.
Rhubarb is a friendly plant as it enjoys being split up every 2-3 years, so share the divided crowns with your friends.
12 Feb 09: MyPhalaenopis Orchid has finished flowering the flowers have fallen off the stem please could you give me some advice on what to do next .Do I cut off the stem
... Your flower stem should still be green. Cut it off 2 nodes from the base of the stem about 1cm above the node. A node is like a joint in the stem that has a small flap of tissue covering it, this is where the new lateral flower spikes will come from. Flowers on lateral spikes will always be smaller than the fat ones produced on new spikes every spring/summer.
If the entire stem is brown then cut it back to the base. The plant will then produce new flower spikes when it is ready, usually around 9 months time.
You should be feeding your Orchid every 2 weeks, with a liquid Orchid food over spring and summer, then every month over autumn and winter.
11 Feb 09: All this season my tomato plants have all suffered ’die back’ from the base, this has occurred after fruit set which has not been affected.the Sweet 100 is now 3.3mtr(measured) tall growing very well at the top, but the bottom 2m has withered, and been pruned back. A tommy tom in a bag has ’die back’ as did a money maker in my small plastic house, have you any ideas?
... Some points to consider:
1 - The weather has been very hot and humid. If your plants have fungal or white/grey/brown patches on the leaves or stems I would suggest they are suffering from a fungal or blight attack. This will cause the leaves to die back. Spray with Champ DP or Bravo.
2 - If the stems are showing black patches and the plants are collapsing this would indicate a Wilt disease. Remove and distroy the plants, do not compost them. Do not replant Tomatoes in this area for the next 3 years.
3 - Consistent regular deep watering of the plants at their roots, not on leaves or stems, will encourage healthy stem, leaf and fruit development.
4 - Heavily pruned plants become more susceptable to Blossom End Rot.
5 - Browning of the leaf margins can be caused by an imbalance of trace elements in the soil. Make sure you are using a good Tomato fertiliser at the prescribed rate and frequency.
6 - Check that the roots of your plants are healthy and white, if not then you have a soil issue, either a nutrient imbalance or deficiency, treat this as in point5. Or a pathogen is attacking the roots, in this case I would remove and distroy the plants, do not compost them. Do not replant Tomatoes in this area for the next 3 years.
11 Feb 09: Some of our tomatoes have a whole lot of white spots on the fleshy part when cut open. I’ve been told that it’s caused by green shield beetles. We’ve sprayed with pyrethrum. Are these tomatoes safe to eat? What causes the white spots? Some of them are riddled others just have one or two.
... I have been doing some research into you issue and have found the following:
Green Shield Big will suck the sap and cause corky flesh in the fruit. I would doubt this is your issue.
There are a number of things you can check:
1 - Are the plant roots healthy and white? If not then this will be causing issues further up the plant.
2 - Have you any fungal or other spots on the plant or fruit? If so this may be a symptom of the disease on the plant.
3 - Have you been watering your plant regularly, deeply and NOT on the leaves or stems? If not this may be an inconsistent watering issue.
4 - Have you fed your plant with a good Tomato food regularly? If not your symptoms may be caused by a deficiency of calcium or some other element from the soil.
5 - Does the plant appear to be fruiting well? If so then I would look at my above points, follow them and harvest your fruit.
Natures Way Pyrethrum has a with-holding period of one day. This means you can wash and eat the fruit safely 24hours after spraying.
9 Feb 09: Could you advise the best way to deal with Lemon Tree Borer.At what time of the year is it best to get on top of it.I know we may not be able to completely eradicate it,but i would like to be able to slow it’s progress,Many Thanks
... There are a number of ways to minimise damage by Borer however, unless it is a very small and new infestation, it is unlikely you will get rid of it.
I recommend you prune out all the infested branches back to good clean wood. Burn the prunings or put out in your garbage, do not compost.
Any infestations you are unable to remove inject with "BV Borer" $14.99, or you could try injecting with Nature’s Way Pyrethrum.
If it is a bad infestation I would recommend removing the tree.
5 Feb 09: Blueberries - How many plants do I need for 2 people? Shoul I have different varities?
... Blueberries do not require a separate polinator, nor do they benefit from multiple bushes of different varieties. You can plant one bush or many.
They do make an excellent, albeit slow growing, hedge.
Plant as many as your hunger demands. Their yield will slowly increase with age but they are not excessively bountifull so I would be planting at least 4.
For best results follow the guidelines found on the Incredible Edibles web site; www.edible.co.nz
5 Feb 09: My indoor plant in severlly infested by mealy bugs. I have been spraying Yates Confidor but it is of no use, I am worried as other indoor plants are also getting them. Please help as the leaves of the infested plant is falling....Thank you
... Mealy Bug typically infests the roots and soil as well as the plant. I recommend you mix up a 1/2 bucket of confidor and sit the whole pot/rootball into the bucket and leave it there for at least 1/2 an hour so the rootball is saturated. If the rootball is too large to fit into a bucket you will have to pour the confidor solution over the soil surface and allow it to soak into the soil. You need to do this when the soil is already moist to ensure good even saturation of the soil. You may need to do this several times to make sure the whole rootball is saturated.
Mealy Bug often infests plants that are under stress from lack of water. You need to make sure you are watering your plants deeply at least once a week. A little sprinkle of water once a day is never as effective as one deep saturating water a week.
4 Feb 09: Hi - I am about to put in a vegetable garden by way of raised beds. The new garden is going down the side of our house which currently is fully concreted. Do I need to either cut through/dig up the concrete/ put drainage holes in it? If drainage holes, at what frequency.
... As long as you have drainage holes at the base of the raised bed walls and a good mix of scoria and charcoal in the bottom of the beds to allow drainage this will be sufficient. I would put, in a 1mt wide bed, 2 runs of nova-flow drainage pipe running the length of the bed then comming out the end to drain wherever you wish. This will give adequate drainage and minimise the seepage of discoloured water all over the concrete. Otherwise I would dig up the concrete.... I know the pipe is the simplest option.
4 Feb 09: I have planted some taupata and want to form a hedge. When should I begin to prune them? They have tripled in size in 3 months. Many thanks
... Coprosma repens benefits from regular hard pruning. If you let it grow too far it will become leggy and woody. It is a vigorous grower so will require pruning every 3-4 months to keep it looking fresh and lush.
I always recommend regular pruning right from planting time to develop a solid framework for your hedge. So prune back by about 1/3 to 1/2 the height and width of the plant and you will develop a multi branched frame work. From then on you should prune for shape every 3-4 months.
4 Feb 09: Please advise if you have a remedy in regards to mosquitos breeding in bromeliad flowers. What can I use to help eradicate the mosquitos here without damaging my broms?I await your reply.
... As long as the Bromeliads are not in full sun I would recommend a few drops of Conqueror Oil dropped into the water in the centre of each Brom. The oil will smother the larvae.
15 Dec 08: I planted a stephenosis in an area by the front door that gets afternoon sun. It promptly went yellow and died. In the same spot I have a rhodo doing very well and petunias which are huge and just keep on flowering. I would like to try a step again - if I put it in a pot to watch it could I leave it in the pot or would it have to be planted out.
... You may have bought an indoor grown Stephanotis that had not been hardened to outdoor conditions. This would have quickly burnt off in the strong afternoon sun.
Stephanotis traditionally prefer a location out of the harshest afternoon sun and with a cool shaded root run. Keep it well watered without the soil being boggy, let the soil drain freely and dry slightly between waterings.
You can plant into a pot but as long as your soil is free draining, with plenty of organic matter and nutrient rich you should have equal success planting straight into the ground.
5 Dec 08: I have recently purchased 2 x minature standard roses which I carefully planted into tubs with a good quality tub mix,they have lots of buds but have noticed the outer leaves on some of the buds have gone yellow,what is the reason for this?
... This yellowing could be for a couple of reasons:
1 - Plants can show signs of shock when transplanted from a pot to another vessel or the ground. If the roots are cut at all this will set the plant back and it will show this in loss of leaves and/or flowers.
2 - The weather has been very warm over the past week or so and you need to be watering your tubs and pots deeply every 2 or 3 days to ensure you do not place stress on the plant as it trys to get more water.
3 - When planting did you make the soil level 5cm from the top of the tub? This allows you to fill the tub to the rim with water each time you water so you know that the whole pot will be saturated.
4 - When planting did you make sure the root ball of the plant was sitting about 3cm below the soil surface in the tub? If you plant so the root ball is sticking out of the surrounding soil it will act as a wick and will dry out very quickly.
5 - The weather has also been very windy over the past month, this will be putting your plant under moisture loss stress as the roots will not be out into the new container mix yet. Give the plant some wind protection and water deeply.
Don’t forget to spray your roses regularly to prevent Black Spot and insect damage. With rose spraying, as you spray regularly all season, I would strongly recommend that you alternate between two different sprays to ensure the insects and diseases do not build a resistance to any one chemical. Our general recommendation is to alternate between Shield or Champ DP, and Super Shield. Super Shield has the added Maverik as a broarder spectrum insecticide to kill White Fly and Mites.
You will prolong flowering if you dead-head the spent flowers regularly, I do mine every couple of days. Generally the best practice is to prune back to a leaf stem with 5 leaflets.
Placing a layer of Pea Straw over the surface of the soil will help conserve moisture also.
4 Dec 08: My roses are being decimated by a plague of small bronze/black beetles that are reducing the roses from the inside out so that I am left with dry, crumbly remnants of the bloom. The bugs drop/hop off and fall to the ground when touched. What can I use t get rid of them that is not harmful to bees please?
... There is a new product on the market that is very effective against Bronze Beetle plus it has the added benefit of incorporating a fungicide as well. I have included some notes on it below:
Product: NO Insects or Disease Spectrum Liquid
NO Insects or Disease is an all round control of pest insects and diseases on roses ornamentals and fruit trees.
Fungicide and Insecticide
Quick Acting
All year round application
All purpose broad Spectrum
No Leaf Burn
For Use on: All types of fruit trees, roses, ornamentals
Effective Against: Aphids, caterpillars, thrips, whitefly, two spotted mite, European red mite, black spot on roses, rust and powdery mildew.
Application: Spray every 12-14 days.
Withholding period: 14 days for pip fruit, 28 days for stone fruit
Although it does not state Bronze Beetle amongst its controls I have it under expert advice that it is better than Target at controlling these pests.
All Kings branches can get this product but as it is very new on the market some may not have it yet. It retails for $19.99.
4 Dec 08: I have a couple of lovely Tecomanthe climbers. I feed them with slow release over the winter and give them a weekly liquid fertiliser however the leaves continue to yellow & drop off. Is there something more I should be doing or is this a natural occurance.
... Tecomanthe is an evergreen climber, but evergreens still have to lose their leaves in the natural growth process. If it is the odd leaf I would not worry, but if it is numerous leaves then the following tips may help.
You are doing a fabulous job with feeding so keep it up.
How often do you water and how deeply? Tecomanthe love the shade and love a cool root run. If the roots are in the sun place a good layer of mulch over the soil surrounding the plant, this will help with water retention and keep the roots cooler. Make sure you do not put the mulch up against the stem as this can lead to collar rot. You can also plant shrubs around the base of the plant to shade the roots. When watering you should leave the sprinkler on for about 1hr to ensure the roots and soil are thoroughly saturated.
3 Dec 08: What is the best season of planting fruit trees such as Feijoas,Mandarine? Thanks for your professional advice.
... Traditionally Autumn and Winter are considered the best seasons for planting deciduous trees as they have a chance to grow new roots before their leaves emerge.
Evergreen plants such as Citrus and Feijoa can be planted at most times of the year as their root systems are not cut like deciduous plants. There are a few golden rules for successful planting:
1 - Always dig a hole about 10cm deeper than you require for the rootball. Fill with 5cm of compost with some fertiliser and mix well with the soil in the bottom of the hole.
2 - Plant your plant into the hole so you leave a 5cm hollow from the surrounding soil down to the top of the rootball. This will allow for good deep watering and the water will pool in the hollow and soak in around the rootball rather than running off elsewhere.
3 - Water deeply at least 2 to 3 times a week or more frequently if needed, the worst thing you can do is give your plants a sprinkle watering as this encourages their roots to come to the surface in search of water and they get burnt off with the heat. Use your sprinkler for at least 1 hour to water deeply.
4 - Fertilise with Kings General Garden fertilizer or Kings Citrus Food monthly to ensure consistent continued growth and flowering.
3 Dec 08: I am trying to purchase the tall white Alstromeria. Do you have this please?
... This is a common request and I have tried all our suppliers and they all say the same, that the rights for all white varieties are bought up by the commercial flower growers and are unable to be grown for sale to the home garden market.
There are a couple of varieties of white on the market but realistically they have either heavy pink flecks on them (White Star), or are very low growers (White Buttons). I am sorry I am unable to help you more.
3 Dec 08: Hi I was just wondering if you sold mistletoe at any of your stores?
... What an interesting question. Mistletoe are semi parasitic, having leaves or stems for photosynthesis but obtaining water and nutrients from the host tree or shrub that they live on. They do not have roots that grow into the soil. Consequently they are not cultivated or sold for garden use. They are most certainly a spectacular sight in the New Zealand native bush over the summer period.
2 Dec 08: Hi, I asked about passions’ fruit set last week and since the weather has warmed you were right, we now have some fruit coming on. However, as of 2 days ago one of the best looking vines, 2 years old, hitherto very vigorous, has started to look very sick and limp. The root looks fine and there are no bugs, what on earth could this be? A neighbouring passion about 10 feet away turned up its toes a couple of weeks ago for reasons unknown, but since it was smaller and without flowers I didn’t worry about it. This one looked great right up til now. Is there some disease passions get? and how? and what could we spray with to revive it if so?!!
... Passion fruit are predominantly surface rooting so require frequent deep watering during the warmer months. As this last weekend was a scortcher you should have watered it both days.
Mulch around the base of the vine to conserve moisture but make sure the mulch is not up against the stem as this may lead to collar rot.
Passionfruit respond to generous feeding. Apply a complete fertiliser such as Kings Garden Booster, with at lease 10% Nitrogen, 0.5kg per vine when growth starts in Spring then follow up with side dressings of a high Nitrogen fertilizer, such as Sulphate of Amonia, every 3 or 4 weeks through the Summer.
If you believe the plant is subject to a soil borne fungal attack drench the soil with No Root Rot Fungicide. All Kings branches stock No Root Rot.
Passionfruit do generally live about 5 years befor they should be replaced.

1 Dec 08: I have a large number of hydraneas around the base of a deck. Every year they get mould on the leaves, although they still flower the foliage looks awful and I end up cutting them back to get rid of the mouldy foliage, hence I miss a lot of flowering. I suspect the humid Auckland weather is the reason. Is there something I can use as a preventative.
... Is the rot like a "Down" on the leaf or like a "Powder? There are commonly diferent sprays for Downey Mildew and Powdery Mildew.
I would say it is most likely the humid Auckland weather that is creating your problems.
Try the following:
1 - Thin out some other surrounding plants to improve air flow around the Hydrangeas this would help.
2 - Spray with Fungus Fighter for Powdery Mildew, Champ DP for Downy Mildew and Green Guard should get both types.
3 - Cut your Hydrangeas back to 2-3 nodes from the base in Winter every year to produce strong fresh growth.
4 - If all else fails shift the plants to an area with better air flow and plant more tropical loving plants such as Gardenia around the deck.
Hopefully this has answered your question, unfortunately we can not change our humid climate.

1 Dec 08: Hi - I bought a beefsteak tomato plant from you and I have the plant in a pot outside with Living Earth Veggie mix. The plant is looking healthy and is about 30-40 cm with lots of flower clusters, however the flowers are simply drying up and falling off with no fruit forming inside. Can you please suggest what might be causing this? I have been fertilising with Living Earth Reward, and have put pea straw around the plant. Your assistance would be greatly appreciated! thanks ... A few things to consider:
1 - the weather is only now starting to warm consistently, the weekend was a scortcher prior to this however the cool temperatures and rain have not been good for bees, pollination or flower set.
2 - To encourage the bees plant flowering plants such as Nasturtiums to attract the bees and repel the aphids etc.
3 - You can self pollinate using a small paint brush and transfering the pollen from anthers to stigmas over the plant.
Keep up the good work with the feeding and watering.

27 Nov 08: can you advise me what citrus trees would be nice to plant. I currently have very old lemon and manderine trees and beleive me when i say old. I would say about 50 years old. There still produce great fruit but because of their location on our section i wish to remove them, but prior doing so i want to get another crop going prior removal. Can you suggest what would be a nice lemon and manderine to plant. I have never grown any citrus trees ever so i am not familiar with good fruit trees and poor producing ones. Oh and any suggestions on an orange tree(preferrably no pips!!!)

... It will take 3 to 5 years for a newly planted Citrus to start bearing quantities of fruit. I strongly recommend you remove the fruitlets as the flowers fade for the first year or two to enable the tree to put all its energy into growing a strong healthy plant that will fruit better earlier.
Satsuma Mandarine, Navel Orange and Tahitian Lime all produce seedless fruit.
Satsuma Mandarine varieties are loose skinned so easy peel. You can plant 2 mandarines and have fruit for months, Satsuma Miho Wasa is early and Encore is late bearing.
Meyer lemon is a mild flavoured Lemon good for drinks etc, Lisbon, Yen Ben and Eureka are sharper and good for cooking. Yen Ben is seedless.
The best Tangelo, a Mandarine - Grapefruit hybrid, is Seminole.
Citrus are best left to ripen on the tree, often fruit will look ripe in December but if you leave it till January/February to pick it will have a far higher sugar content in the fruit and be much sweeter and juicy.
When preparing the ground to plant use plenty of Kings Organic Compost, if it is a heavy clay soil add a good application of Gypsum to break up the clay particles. Finally don’t forget to feed with Kings Citrus Food, this is an excellent ballanced fertilizer for Citrus and will encourage good growth.
Have a look at the Citrus Growing Guide on our Website, it will give you a good guide.

27 Nov 08: I have planted arond three and one brinjal and capsicum plants from seed directly into the soil (around two months ago). However, I have observed that their growth is relatively slow. They have stayed at around 1/2 " from the ground for almost a month. The brinjal has half eaten leaves (around five of them) and some of them have turned yellow. The same applies to the capsium plant. I water them daily when the weather is hot. The soil that they are planted in as been well fertilised with sheep pelletts. I feed them regularly with Yates granular food. Both these plants get the morning sunlight upto around 2:30 p.m.
Please advise what I should be doing differently.
... Both the brinjal (Aubergine or Egg Plant) and the capsicum do require a little warmth for germination and growth, and to this point we are still having some cool nights and mornings. Give them time and they will come away. I sowed watermelon seed that has done the same so I have finally planted them out of the seedling tray into the garden in a very sunny spot.
Young seedlings also require protection from the wind and consistent watering, they must not dry out.
Sometimes if you over-fertilize young seedlings they will fail to thrive as the tiny roots get burnt by the strength of the fertilizer. Sheep pellets are very concentrated and this may be impacting the new plants growth.
The holes will be slugs and snails or caterpillars. Sprinkle Quash or Baysol on the soil around the seedlings to prevent this damage.
I suggest you:
1 - Protect your plants from the wind
2 - Water deeply and regularly
3 - Feed with Kings Fast Food liquid fertilizer
4 - Sprinkle some Quash or Baysol Slug and Snail Pellets around the plants
Should this not prove successful then I would look at buying some more advanced seedlings from your local Kings Branch.

24 Nov 08: Hi, we have several standard passions and though they are growing and flowering madly, the flowers all seem to be falling off and there is no fruit set. I thought passions were self-fertile? We have had fruit before but none have set so far this year. Is this a water issue? The plants have been potashed and there is no disease or bugs evident. There are at least 5 different vines in different spots all round the place but the same thing is happening on all of them. We are in Auckland
... We are still having some cool nights and days and this will most definitely affect the set of fruit. There is also a lack of bees around currently due to diminishing populations and the cooler weather and rain.
To attract more bees I would advise planting Marigolds, Nasturtiums and other flowering annuals and perennials, some of these such as the Nasturtiums, will also help repel Aphids and Green Shield Bugs.
Unfortunately the weather is out of our control but you can give the plants good wind protection, water deeply at least once a week and mulch around the base with Kings Organic Compost.

24 Nov 08: hi there im just wondering why my mandarin tree, every year it grows really dry tasting fruit? and also not much of it. i have a huge tree next to it probably 10 meters from it could this be the problem?
... Firstly some points to consider:
1 - Do you water your tree DEEPLY at least once a week in spring and summer? If not you will lower the production of fruit and they will be dryer. Watering deeply means putting the sprinkler on the tree for at least an hour, so the root area is saturated out to the full circumference of the tree (the drip line).
2 - Have you fed your tree with a well ballanced Citrus fertiliser every year? Kings Citrus Food will help the tree produce more and better quality fruit. It comes in a handy carry pack and is granular for easy application.
3 - Have you top-dressed the soil around the tree with compost or mulch? Kings Organic Compost and Kings Mulch improve the soil structure and nutrient levels as well as suppressing weeds and reducing moisture loss from the soil. You should apply this every year.
4 - Does your tree have Borer? Look for frass (like sawdust or droppings) on the branches, trunk and especially in the joints where the branches join the trunk. This will gradually kill the tree and realistically can only be controlled successfully when in the very early stages of infestation when you can dose EVERY hole with Borer Injector Spray.
If you have checked, and are doing, all the above then the only other issue would be the large tree. This will most certainly be taking a good proportion of the moisture from the soil. Is it a Pine tree or a She-oak? If so then the needles will be making the soil acid and Citrus love a more alkaline soil. You could top-dress the soil with lime. The large tree may also be reducing the sunlight to the Citrus tree.

24 Nov 08: What is the best way to get rid of Woolly night shade trees?.
... Wooley Niteshade, or flannel Leaf is a noxious weed and does require removal from properties by the owner in most regions of New Zealand. It seeds very readily and does require vigilant control.
The easiest control is to pull or dig out the smaller seedlings and plants, however if it is a substantial tree you will need to cut the stem off about 5-10cm above the soil and drill holes in the stump then fill the holes with Woody Weed Killer or Amatrole, cover the stem with plastic and tie off to minimise chemical vapourising. You can spray the plant with a Glysophate like Roundup but you need to use a spreading and sticking agent like Pulse and you must drench the plant.
I have attached a link for you to read re control of Wooley Niteshade in the Bay Of Plenty, it is very informative and should give you the solutions to your issue;
www.ebop.govt.nz/land/media/pdf/Fact_Sheet_PP01.pdf

17 Nov 08: Could you please tell us when is the best time to transplant a rose. We put it in a good place, then we built a wind break, so can no longer see and appreciate the rose called "Golden Rain".

... Roses love shelter from the worst winds but do like good air movement.
The best time to shift a rose is in the Autumn-Winter when they have lost their leaves. In saying this, if you prune your rose back slightly now, transplant it and deep water it regularly you should not have too many issues. The key is diging it out with a good big rootball so you do not lose too many roots, and keeping it well watered after shifting.
Mix some Kings Rose food in with the soil in the bottom of the hole, plant your rose and mulch with a good layer of Kings Organic Compost to maximise water retention.
Should you not want to take this small risk you could wait till next Autumn and shift it then.

17 Nov 08: I have a 2.5 kg bag of Scotts Lawn Builder and Weed Kill and am worried by two small dogs and 1 large cat could be affected by this product.
... As with ALL pesticide and herbicide chemicals you must follow the directions on the packet. There is a warning on the packet regarding feeding the grass clippings to animals or poultry, I would suggest this would carry through for all animals and children and would keep them away from the lawn for at least a few days.
When spreading the powder/granules take the precaution of wearing a mask, long sleves, trousers and covered in shoes. It is my strong view that we can never be too careful with any chemicals, always protect yourself adequately.

17 Nov 08: This year although I planted my potato crop at the same time the tops have just shot awat and have reached about 1metre high and still growing. I suspect that it is because of the amount of rain that we had at the time but wonder if all I am going to get is a crop of tops with no potatoes below. Should i continue with this crop with the vain hope I will get some return on my investment or take the bull by the horns uproot the lot and put in a late crop. By the way I have not used any fertiliser at all on any of my garden plots ( and have not done so for the last 15 years) onlyusing plant cuttings and household scraps in my homemade compost from my own heap.

... If you want to see what is happening below ground you can "bandicoot" a plant, you just burrow into the soil near the base of the plant and see if you can find some tubers. I would be hesitant to dig up the whole crop unless you are positive there are no potatoes.
Your home made compost will be excellent and is the best thing you can do, however you may find that over time the phosphorous in your soil has become depleted. I would recommend you add a top-dressing of Riverside Potato Food as it has a higher Phosphorous (P) content (N4 . P6 . K6) for root production. It comes in a 4kgbag for $9.99. This should ensure you produce a good crop of potatoes.
If you are interested you could do a soil test to identify the levels of specific elements in your soil. Kings branches stock soil test kits that are very easy and reliable to use.

17 Nov 08: I have heard contrasting opinions as to whether it is best to water the vege and other gardens in the mornings or the evenings.
Do you have a theory?
... You are correct there are many theories on watering.
1 - Less frequest, deep soakings will encourage the plant roots to grow down into the soil. Light sprinklings (as with a hand held hose) are therapeutic for the gardener, but create problems for the plants by encouraging the roots to stay near the soil surface where they are more susceptable to to heating up and drying out.
2 - Water the roots not the leaves, soaker hoses are great for slow watering into the soil, place them so the holes point down to the soil. You lose no water to evaporation or wind and the plant leaves are kept dry.
3 - If a soaker hose is not an option then use a sprinkler with a fine spray that will gently soak the soil. Remember to soak the soil deeply, I leave my sprinkler in one position for at least 1/2 to 1 hour at a time. I would like to use soaker hoses on my garden but I would need 8 to do it effectively so that is on the list of to-do’s.
4 - Water either in the morning or in the evening, but not in the middle of the day as this can lead to burning. My preferance is to water in the morning as the water does not sit on the plants all night, giving the possibility of disease, however neither way is more correct.
So I guess the answer is do it when it suits you, but do it well every time.

17 Nov 08: Hello - Our vege garden was destroyed last summer by green shield bugs. They sucked the life out of our beans and tomatos and absolutely covered our Rhubarb leaves. We tried spraying with Pyrethrum but this didn’t help much, and there were far too many to squash! We notice that they are returning after the winter for another feast. Can you please advise how we can deter them? Would Conquerer Oil be worth a try? Thanks in advance for you help!
... Green Shield Bugs, or Green Vegetable Bugs, are a difficult pest and can, as you have sadly experienced, cause significant damage.You should be growing Nasturtiums in and around your Vegetable garden as these repel Green Shield Bugs and Aphids, as well as being a tasty and bright addition to your salad and great colour in the garden. Aditionally I recommend you use Natures Way Derris Dust immediately and on through the season as recommended below. It comes in a shaker pack and is very easy to use.
Directions for use:
Lightly dust plants directly from shaker at first sign of insects. Choose a still morning, preferably when dew is on the foliage. While insects are evident repeat every 7-10 days, or following rain.
Precautions:
Do not apply to food crops within 1 day of harvest.
All Kings branches stock this in a 500g shaker pack for $11.99.

13 Nov 08: Last April I planted some grisalinia plants with the hope of them becoming a hedge eventually. Just in the past month a couple of the plants have been looking very unhealthy and sad (wiltering) even though I have been keeping them well watered. Can you please suggest what I can do to assist the health and growth of my plants.
... Some points to consider:
1 - Is your soil too wet or dry, dig down 10-15cm beside the plant and if the soil is dry you need to practice deeper watering for longer each time. If the soil is gluggy you are over watering and need to cut the frequency of watering but still water deeply.
2 - did you feed the plants at planting, if so did you mix the fert well with the soil or put the rootball straight on to of the fert. This can sometimes burn the roots.
3 - When planting did you position the rootball into the hole so the soil covered it with a 5 cm layer. I usually plant so the rootball is about 10 cm below the surrounding soil level, then I cover with a 5cm layer of fresh soil and this leaves a 5cm dip that I use to ensure when I water the water does not just run away but collects around the rootball and soakes this area.
4 - Plants can sometimes suffer from bacteria and fungi in the soil, you may consider using the natural product Trichopel. All Kings branches stock the Trichopel products and I believe they have been re-named "Grow Max". I have listed some info about it below:
Trichopel contains the living beneficial fungus Trichoderma. Trichoderma acts as a mycoparasite with antagonistic properties against many wood invading and soil living, fungal pathogens, which infect plants and their roots.
The good news is that Trichoderma has a broad spectrum of activity against many fungi including Rhizoctonia, Pythium and most importantly Phytophthora, the main cause of failure with plants grown in heavy soils particularly in warmer areas.
Trichoderma is a living organism which will rapidly establish under appropriate conditions and may remain in the soil for extended periods of time.
Trichopel does not take away the need to improve your soil composition. The Trichoderma fungus acts as a safety measure to help minimize the death of plants from Phytophthora. If you suspect this has been a problem in your garden in the past, or could well be in the future, this product will be very beneficial to you.
5 - Have you added a good 6-10cm layer of compost to your whole garden, this will improve the soil structure and nutrients.

10 Nov 08: I have several lines of hebes, these have grown exceptionally well since planting about 18 months ago, unfortunately 6 of them scattered throughout the lines are now showing a lot of dead wood or yellowing leaves. They are planted behind timber retaining walls with scoria drainage; the Orewa hillside clay soil had gypsum applied prior to planting, grass clipping mulch during summer, very light dressing of lime and 15% potash super during last autumn. Please advise the best course of action to rejuvenate the sad hebes and reinstate what was an attractive landscape feature.

... You have obviously worked hard at getting your planting right and have done an excellent job.
A couple of points:
- Apply Gypsum to heavy clay soil every 6 to 12 months to assist in the breaking up of the clay.
- Apply Kings Organic Compost or Mulch to improve water retention, soil structure and nutrient levels. Grass clippings will heat up in the decomposition phase and this will cook the roots of the Hebes, it will also rob the soil of Nitrogen. Compost the clippings prior to putting around the Hebes.
- Potash is an excellent potassium fertiliser that will help the plants cell structure and movement of water through the plant as well as promoting the production of chlorophyll. You have done well adding this but I would also add a high nitrogen fertiliser such as Kings garden booster N 14 . P 6 . K 11.6 or Urea which is 46% Nitrogen, water this in or water after you have applied.
- Check the soil around your plants, retained and sloping gardens do lose moisture faster than a standard garden and we have started having some lovely warm weather. You may need to start watering your plants. Conversly if they got very waterlogged over our wet winter you may need to feed again with Potash to assist root regeneration.
- Finally don’t forget to prune all your Hebes after every flowering by at least 1/3, this encourages lush dense growth from all over the plant as well as the base. If you do not do this you will usually find your hebes defoliate at the base and in the centre with just the branch tips having foliage on them. You will keep a fresh lush plant for years longer by hard pruning them after flowering each year.

5 Nov 08: I have a four year old Louiisa Plum which has borne good fruit - however I have noticed some malformed fruit (flat shape) and I assume this may be bladder plum how can I rectify this... if not for this season then for future years.
... Bladder plum is a fungus disease similar to peach leaf curl. It over-winters in leaf and flower buds. When favourable conditions are prevalent, such as cool wet weather in spring, the fungus multiplies. It is spread by rain splash. The fruit becomes spongy and hollow.
Remove diseased material and infected fruit and burn - do not place in the compost bin as this will spread the disease. Spray with Copper Oxychloride or Champion Copper at leaf drop in Autumn, then in Spring when buds start to swell, and at 14 day intervals through Summer.

4 Nov 08: Haven’t got a big enough vege garden so 2 years ago was delighted with the crop of pot grown red and green capsicums. Last year in my enthusiasm I planted out yellow , brown and yellow varieties but had very poor and even withered plants .Where did I go wrong.Both times the soil was a mixture of vege mix and compost from Kings. Did I over water/underwater? The pots are in direct sun.
... Withered plants can come from both over and under watering. Some Questions to ask:
1 - Is the soil just moist when you dig down beside the plant about 6-10cm? If so then it should be just right.
2 - Is the soil wet when you dig down beside the plant about 6-10cm? If so then it is too wet.
3 - Is the soil dry when you dig down beside the plant about 6-10cm? If so then it is too dry.
4 - Does your plant have Aphids, little green sucking pests that will rob the plant of vigour and health. If so spray with Garlic and Pyrethrum spray as it is not toxic.
5 - Did you plant into fresh Kings vege mix, if not the soil will be depleated of nutrients. Refresh using Kings Pot Recharger granules.
6 - How much compost did you mix into the vege mix, you should not need to use this if using fresh vege mix. This may have burnt the roots of the plants.
7 - Have you been watering your pot at least twice a week and feeding with Kings Liquid Fast Food, this ensures the plants do not run out of food. I have been watering every second day as the weather has warmed.
8 - Are the pots in a windy location, this will put stress on the plants and lead to poor performance.
I have to say I have had exceptional results with the red and green varieties but have found the other colours to be slightly more temperamental.

4 Nov 08: I bought a Lebanese Cucumber plant for Plant Barn Botony last week and planted it in fresh potting mix in a big pot but it is looking very unwell. We have had a lot of rain - could this be the cause although I noted it didn’t have much root structure when I removed it from its small c ontainer to the big pot.
... As you would have bought a young seedling that had been potted I would expect that it would not have an extensive root system however I would expect it to have some roots. When you removed it from the pot did you tip the pot up and gently tap it till the whole root/soil ball dropped out, the new roots are very fragile and will break off easily.
Cucumber as with many of the cucurbit family, prefer to be watered around the soil not on the leaves and only water in the morning. Both of these techniques help minimise fungal disease. damping off, powdery mildew, and collar rot are common diseases caused by excessive or untimely watering. You must keep it moist at all times but not waterlogged.
Protection from wind is especially important when the plant is young, cutting a milk bottle top and base off and putting the tube around the plant will allow sun and air movement but protect from the buffeting wind.
Some Growing Tips: Start by choosing a sunny sheltered spot in the garden. As Lebanese cucumber plants develop into small climbers, they’re best grown next to a support but they can also be allowed to trail along the ground. Prepare the soil by digging in some Kings Garden Booster fertiliser. Add a small amount of organic matter (such as Kings Organic Compost) and, in acid soils, some Yates Garden Lime. Build up the soil into a well-drained mound.
Lebanese Cucumber can produce male and female flowers on different plants so it is always wise to plant a number of plants.

4 Nov 08: I have planted several passion fruit in various locations around my property BUT apart from one curling up its toes late winter we have had NO success at all. Is there a magic formula because I love to eat these a lot , Thanks.
... Some tips on growing Passionfruit:
Sun - Full sun or partial shade.
Wind - They are not wind hardy so need protection from cold winds and do not grow well in salty maritime locations.
Climate - Plants like warm climates, and are, relatively frost tender but will grow back from the base if burnt lightly from frost. Vines need adequate moisture particularly while young and when fruits are maturing.
Soil - Passionfruit need a light well drained soil. Any water logging will rot these plants. If you do have a heavy soil plant in a mound to make sure there is good drainage. Passionfruits like slightly acid soil.
Fertiliser - Passionfruit are heavy feeders. Apply approximately 2kg of Kings Garden Booster in three equal amounts over the season. During the growing season apply Kings Citrus and Fruit Tree fertiliser every 3-4 weeks.
Pruning - As fruit is formed on current seasons wood prune in spring to encourage new growth. Prune hard one lateral annually. Train the vine up a fence or wall removing all laterals until it reaches the height you require then pinch out the top.
Watering - Regular watering is necessary as the roots are quite shallow, and I don’t mean a sprinkle with the hose or relying on the last rain! You should be watering your plants deeply at least 1-2 times a week.
Mulching - This can help retain moisture but make sure it is not against the stems as it may cause collar rot.
Pests - Root rot and nematodes are partially responsible for short life of vines. Make sure the soil does not get over wet and waterlogged. Leafhoppers, stink bugs are minor problems of the passionfruit vines.
Hardiness - Very frost tender so need protection until established. We had 3 consecutive mornings of -3.5 degree frosts this winter, so Auckland does get hard frosts.

4 Nov 08: I wish to put some wires along a timber fence to train Roses along. I am having difficulty in finding simple systems for fixing the wire to the fence. Have you any suggestions.
I use the simple method of screwing a series of hooks into the fence and running the wire between these. I hand tension them but if you require more tension make a long loop of wire where it attaches to the hook, you can then insert a stick or nail into the loop and twist the wire and stick around so it tightens. This system has worked beautifully for me.
Don’t forget it is time to be spraying your roses we recommend you alternate every 2 weeks between Super Shield, Bravo and Shield. This ensures your pests and diseases do not get a chance to build up a resistance to a chemical.

4 Nov 08: Do fertilisers have a use by date and if so, for how long - approx?
Fertilizers do not generally have a use-by date, however they do have very clear required storage conditions.
Generally there are two basic types of fertiliser, liquid or dry.
1: Liquid fertilisers are generally considered to be stable for 3-5 years given appropriate storage conditions, but after this time their composition can not be guaranteed. These do have a production date on the bottle so you will be able to tell how old they are.
2: Dry fertilisers are essentially ground up rock so they are stable indefinately given appropriate dry storage.
So, as long as you store your fertilisers as prescribed on the packet, you should to be able to use them for up to 3-5 years.
4 Nov 08: Hi, I’ve planted two types of potatoes: Jersey Benney in August in a blue recycling bin and agria in September in my garden. How do you know when they are ready to start digging out? I planted the whole bag into the blue bin with some potato fertiliser and have mounded them a couple of times and same with the batch in the ground but have no idea how to know when they are ready.
... It is possible to start digging "New" potatoes about 3-4 weeks after they have flowered and the lower leaves are turning yellow. If you plan to store your potatoes then let the tops die off completely before you dig them and then store only the undamaged or unblemished potatoes in a cool dark place.
Jersey Benne is a good early potato so if you follow the rule of harvest then you should be able to dig when they have been planted for about 3 months. I am concerned that you planted so many in a relatively small space, I would love you to let me know how they go and how many you get off them. In that space I would have planted perhaps 2, max 3 potatoes. They are excellent containers for planting into and the potato fertiliser is essential so well done!
Agria generally is harvested from June to September so you will have a lovely late harvest. Just follow the rule of harvest once again.

3 Nov 08: I had 4 beautiful Genista’s that flowered beautifully last year, but this year they seem to have been eaten by something and are dying. The trunk and branches have holes all ova them, but I can’t see anything. Would you have any idea what might have attached them and what I can do?
... Genista are very prone to attack by the Kowai caterpillar, and other caterpillars, which will totally defoliate them very quickly. Neem oil should help control kowhai moth caterpillars, but you’ll need to spray at the right time. Check your plants regularly through summer and spray as soon as you spot the first few caterpillars - while they’re still small and haven’t had time to do much damage. You need to be vigilant, as they grow quickly and can sometimes strip a small tree in just a few days! One or two timely sprays will often be enough to control them.
Other products you could use include Success Naturalyte, one of the many pyrethrum-based products such as Garlic & Pyrethrum, Maverik or Maldison.
If you have holes in the woodier stems of the plant I would suggest you have Borer. You can treat this with Bora Cure however my experience has shown that you are better to remove the tree and burn it unfortunately.

3 Nov 08: What type of compost is required for planting potatoes? I have never grown potatoes b4 and I now have a vege garden ready to do just that. Am i too late to plant potatoes? I have seen people using straw in their garden why is this? What type of potato would you recommend for me to plant now?

... It is only the start of November so you still have plenty of time to plant your potatoes. Potatoes take 16 to 20 weeks from planting to harvest so you have missed the planting for Christmas but you will have a lovely crop in Jan-Feb and on.I have an excellent article on the web site about planting and growing Potatoes so have a look at it and you should have all your questions answered. Just click on "Plant Of The Month" on the home page.
The best compost to use is Kings Organic Compost, add about 3 bags to every 2m square of soil and dig it in. This will greatly help the soil structure and nutrient levels and the plants will grow better. Add this compost every time you replant your vege garden and you will soon have a lush garden that is easy to weed also.
Rua is a good all-round potato that is a late cropper. This would give you potatoes that are good for boiling, roasting and more.
Straw can be used in a number of ways. Only ever use Pea Straw as this does not sprout like ordinary hay. Use it as a mulch to keep moisture in the ground, suppress weeds and keep leaves & fruit dry. Or some people use it as a digless garden where they plant straight into the straw, this requires a large volume of straw and added nutrients. In my mind it is easier and more economical to plant into soil and just use the straw as a mulch.

29 Oct 08: We are thinking of setting up a veggie and herb garden, do you sell seeds etc for this?
...Kings have an extensive range of seed, seedlings, potted plants and ready to eat vegitables, fruit and herbs, as well as the Incredible Edibles range and deciduous and evergreen fruit trees.
Our friendly, trained staff will be only to happy to assist you with your selection and tips on successful growing. Don’t forget also that we have great articles and growing guides on our website www.kings.co.nz . You can contact me through the web site to ask your questions and also look at common questions other gardeners have asked and I have answered. I have just started the new "Great Growing" weekly newsletter which is full of tips and helpful ideas and information for successful growing in your garden. Join our VIP Club on-line and receive your copy of this by email.

29 Oct 08: I bought a Tahitian Lime tree from you earlier this year. In your growing guide it says to take off the fruitlets in the first season. Can you please tell me how big I should let the fruitlets get before I take them off. Or do I take them off as soon as they appear?
...If you think of it from the point of view that in the first year or two you only want the tree to put its energy into growing roots, leaves and stems. Let the plant flower as this gives you a wonderful fragrance in your garden, but then as soon as the flower fades just snap the dying flower head off at the flower stem and you will help the plant put all its energies into forming a healthy well formed framework. Don’t forget also that you need to be watering now as the weather warms.