Dahlias

Other than an important place in perennial borders and beds, dahlias have a definite place of their own ... grown In gardens by themselves, carefully staked, fed, watered, and disbudded with care, they will produce flowers of perfection.

Today’s dahlias offer a vast range of forms and colors with dense masses of dark green foliage that can give a striking yet harmonious garden picture. They are grown primarily from the planting of tuberous root sections.

Anyone can grow dahlias of exhibition quality by following the seven simple rules below. These Rules are just as good in Auckland and Invercargill...

1. DONT PLANT TOO EARLY:

It’s easy to get impatient when spring comes, but don’t plant right after the last frost. Dahlias planted too early mature in hot weather and produce poor flowers. Even in mild climates, dahlia growers wait until Late September - Early October.

2. TAKE CARE OF YOUR SOIL:

Dahlias prefer soil that is deeply cultivated, well drained, and has plenty of humus. They also need full sun to produce good flowers.

Compost or other humus should be dug into the dahlia bed every year. Cultivate the surface soil until plants are about 30cm high. After that, feeder roots are near the surface and likely to be damaged by cultivation. Use mulch the rest of the season to keep down weeds and conserve moisture. Plant bulbs 20cm deep (a little deeper if soil is light; slightly less if tuber is small). Cover with 5cm of soil.

3. GIVE PLANTS ENOUGH ROOM:

Since dahlias are heavy feeders, their roots need plenty of room to spread. The large varieties need at least 90cm between plants. Smaller dahlias used for mass effects can be placed 30cm to 60cm apart.

4. TOP AND DISBUD PLANTS:

Pinch out the tops of dahlia plants after the second set of leaves has developed. This makes the plant branch to form four flower stalks instead of one.

If you want huge, exhibition type of blooms, leave the tip bud but go down the stem removing side buds, except for the two bottom ones on the stalk which are needed to produce later flowers. Disbud only large types; pompons and other small dahlias should have masses of flowers.

5. USE CARE IN FEEDING:

Soil too rich causes more failures with dahlias than too-poor soil. Work two good handfuls of blood & Bone into soil for a distance of about 60cm around the spot where each tuber will be planted.

When plants start growing, work about one tablespoonful of complete flowering plant food, into the top 5cm of soil in a ring 30cm more out from the stalk. Feed every two weeks in slowly increasing amounts.

Don’t use high-nitrogen plant foods as stems will become soft and plant will grow leaves at the expense of flowers. It often helps to add a small amount of potash which dahlias need also.

6. STAKE DAHLIAS WELL:

Dahlias, being soft stemmed, break easily. Use Eslon stakes as they don’t rot or mildew. However, wooden stakes can be used.

For large dahlias, stakes should be 1.5mt to 1.85mt high and driven 45cm into the ground. Knot the cord on the stake and then tie loosely about the plant.

7. DIG AND STORE TUBERS CAREFULLY:

After the first frost has killed the tops of your dahlia plants, cut off stalks and loosen the soil around the roots / clump and raise the roots carefully so as not to break any tubers from the stem. Turn upside down in the sun for a few hours to let any juice drain from the hollow stalks. Then dust with sulfur, wrap in paper or cover with dry sand, peatmoss, or sawdust, and store in a cool, dry spot.

VARIETIES AND TYPES:

In selecting your dahlias, you can choose among several thousand named varieties, ranging in size from the dwarfs up to the giant-flowered, 1.8mt-tall exhibition types. As for colors, the only thing you can’t have is a blue dahlia..